Iran - Andrew Burke [339]
The paperwork and organisation involved in travelling to Turkmenistan is still a big hassle; the people at Stantours (www.stantours.com) seem to be the best at making it all go as smoothly as possible.
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SEA
Iran has 2410km of coastal boundaries along the Persian Gulf, Gulf of Oman and Caspian Sea, but there are relatively few ways to enter or leave Iran by sea.
Caspian Sea
Boats with passenger berths do cross the Caspian, but that’s about as definitive as we can be. Schedules are non-existent and most travellers have neither the time, the patience nor the requisite degree of masochism to bother. If you’re still keen, start sniffing around in Noshahr.
Persian Gulf
The main shipping agency for trips across the Persian Gulf is Valfajre-8. Valfajre-8 operates car ferries and catamarans from Bushehr, Bandar Abbas and Bandar-e Lengeh in Iran to destinations including Sharjah, Kuwait City and Bahrain. Services are not exactly frequent and not that much cheaper than flying; for departure details see www.irantravelingcenter.com/valfajr8_persian_gulf.htm.
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TOURS
Many travellers visit Iran on an organised tour, a situation likely to continue as long as visas are hard to come by. Apart from the convenience, having an English-speaking guide can be worthwhile.
The following are some experienced and reputable agencies that offer organised tours to Iran from outside the country (for adventure tours, see the boxed text). Note that almost all of these companies use local operators once you get to Iran. If you can live without that foreign tour leader, consider booking direct through an Iranian operator Click here.
Australia & New Zealand
Equitrek ( 02-9913 9408; www.equitrek.com.au) Tailor-made horse riding tours of the northeast.
Passport Travel ( 03-9500 0444, www.travelcentre.com.au) Standard highlights trip, plus a more exotic tour of northwest ethnic groups.
Continental Europe
Catai Tours (www.catai.es) For Spanish speakers.
Clio ( 01 53 68 82 82; www.clio.fr) French operator of cultural tours.
Pars Travel ( 069-230882) In Frankfurt, mainly flights and some tours.
UK
Ace Study Tours ( 01223-835 055; study-tours.org) Ace Study provides infrequent study tours with professional lecturers.
Magic Carpet Travel ( 01344-622 832; www.magic-carpet-travel.com) Established, Iranian-owned operator specialising in Iran tours.
Persian Voyages ( 01306-885 894; www.persianvoyages.com) Iran specialist with a range of tours; Nasrin is very helpful.
USA & Canada
Americans often use organised tours as it’s difficult to get a visa otherwise.
Bestway Tours & Safaris ( 800 663 0844; www.bestway.com) Upmarket trips, some combining nearby ‘stans.
Distant Horizons ( 800 333 1240; www.distant-horizons.com) Small groups accompanied by a scholar.
Geographic Expeditions ( 800 777 8183; www.geoex.com) Mainly bespoke tours aimed at the upper end.
Silk Road Tours ( 888 881 7455; www.silkroadtours.com) Regular package and tailor-made tours.
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GETTING AROUND
Most visitors are pleasantly surprised by the transport system in Iran. Once you accept that the driving is…erm…more imaginative than what you’re used to at home, you’ll appreciate that services on most forms of public transport are frequent, fairly punctual and very cheap. For planes and trains it’s worth booking ahead if you’re travelling on a weekend or any public holiday, especially No Ruz, Ramazan and Eid al-Fitr. At No Ruz bus fares usually rise by about 20%. For more information on holidays, Click here.
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AIR
The days of US$5 flights from Tehran to Esfahan are gone, but domestic air fares in Iran are still cheap; Tehran to Shiraz, for example, is just IR245,000. Happy days!
Airlines in Iran
Iran Air is the largest among a growing roster of domestic airlines and boasts an extensive network of flights, covering most provincial