Iran - Andrew Burke [344]
After years of multi-billion dollar government subsidies and much debate, Iran’s state-regulated and ridiculously low benzin (petrol) prices were finally raised in mid 2007. The price hike is tied to a new rationing system, by which drivers are entitled to a per-day quota. The quota depends on whether the vehicle is used for private or commercial use. The whole system is underpinned by an ambitious system by which every vehicle owner is issued a ration card, which is swiped through a machine to record the date and quantity of every litre bought. At the time of writing, motorcycles were allowed the equivalent of 1L per day, standard cars 4L a day and taxis about 20L a day. So what does this mean if you’re driving your own vehicle in Iran?
Diesel
If you use diesel then start cheering now! Prices are fixed and are not subject to rationing, so you can buy diesel across the country for IR165 a litre. Diesel stations can be hard to find, but you’ll know one when you find it by the long line of trucks parked outside.
Benzin (Petrol/Gasoline)
In theory, without a ration card you can’t buy benzin. After much initial confusion, foreigners can now buy ration cards for 100L (IR500,000) or 300L (IR1,500,000) at the National Iranian Oil Products Distribution Company (usually called NIOPDC) office in each major town. Yes, that’s five times what Iranians have to pay. Present the card at the benzin station and pay an additional IR1000 for each litre you buy (that’s so the station gets the local rate).
Okay, so where do I get a card? Coming from Turkey, the NIOPDC office in Maku (at 39° 17’06.43” N, 44° 32’20.47” E) is the place to go. Take your ownership documents. Elsewhere you’ll have to ask for the local NIOPDC office; this system was introduced after we researched so they’re not marked on our maps. Overlanders who have travelled with this system report that in larger cities, especially Tehran, it’s very difficult to buy petrol without the card. However, a thriving black market operates elsewhere, which you’ll probably need to use to avoid running your card dry.
Iranians pay IR1000 per litre for their rationed amount, and can then buy extra for IR3000 a litre – still half of what foreigners must pay. The result is a black market where benzin sells for between IR3000 and IR4000 a litre, except near borders where it can be three times that much. The sellers will be petrol station owners, other drivers (usually taxi drivers because of their larger ration) and even, according to one driver, the police themselves. Going to a benzin station and looking lost seems to be the best method. If this sounds like a big hassle, then the good news is that you’re in Iran…if you run out of gas, some random, kind-hearted Iranian is guaranteed to help out.
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Road Conditions
Road surfaces are generally excellent. On the other hand, driving at night is more dangerous because of occasional unmarked potholes and the risk of running into tractors and other vehicles crawling along the road with no lights. On intercity roads most signs are in English and Farsi, including directions to most cities, towns and villages. Within cities, street signs vary between non-existent (quite rare these days) and thorough to the point of telling you when a street is a dead end!
Road Hazards
Iranian drivers in the cities. Camels in the deserts. Unmarked speed bumps everywhere.
The last are both highly annoying and dangerous, and you’ll often be completely unaware they exist until your car suddenly lurches and jumps as you launch over the bump. Such speed bumps are often at the edge of towns, so watch for brake lights ahead.
If you’re in an accident the Iranian involved will probably call the local traffic police. If you’re alone, call the emergency number – 110 for police, 115 for ambulance. You should never move the vehicle from the road until the police have come to make their report. As a foreigner, you’ll probably be held responsible.
Road Rules
Lanes? What are they? Driving across Iran is not a task to be taken lightly. In theory, the