Iran - Andrew Burke [348]
Return to beginning of chapter
SAVARI (SHARED TAXI)
You can almost always find a savari for a trip between towns less than three hours apart. Savari means ‘shared taxi’ and is usually applied to intercity versions of the species. Speed is the main advantage because savaris are generally less comfortable than buses. Sometimes two people will be expected to squeeze into the front passenger seat, though for longer journeys four passengers all up is the norm.
Savaris rarely leave with an empty seat unless a passenger (or all passengers) agrees to pay for it. These days most savaris are Kia Prides (or the rebadged Saipa Saba) and bigger Peugeot 404s, though there are still plenty of Paykans around. Peugeots usually cost a bit more.
As a general rule, savaris cost about three times more than mahmooly buses. This is still cheap and worth using for quick trips, especially through dull stretches of countryside. As usual, lone women will normally be given the front seat.
Savaris usually leave from inside, or just outside, the relevant bus terminal, or at major squares at the beginning of whichever road they’re about to head down. If in doubt, charter a private taxi and tell the driver ‘savari’ and your destination.
Return to beginning of chapter
TOURS
Most organised tours start and finish in Tehran, with a quick look around the capital before concentrating on the must-sees: Shiraz, Esfahan and Yazd, with either Tabriz or Mashhad, or possibly Kerman and Rayen, thrown in.
The handful of Iranian travel companies listed here have been recommended by readers. Most offer standard itineraries plus something different, and can organise tailor-made trips to suit particular interests. They can help with visas if you give enough notice. Guides who speak English, French, German, Japanese and sometimes Spanish or Italian can be arranged. Costs depend on the length of the tour, the mode of transport, the type of accommodation and the current exchange rate. Expect to pay in dollars or euros.
These companies often act as local handlers for foreign-based agencies selling tours to Iran, so booking direct should give you the same tour (without the foreign tour leader) for significantly less than foreign agencies charge. Feedback on these or other operators is welcome and will help us keep this list as helpful as possible; see www.lonelyplanet.com/contact. See also the boxed text for specialist adventure agencies.
Abgin Cultural Tours of Persia ( 021-2235 9272; www.abgintours.com) Based in Tehran; offers wide range of fixed tours plus flexible, personalised trips. Great feedback from travellers.
Adibian Travel Agency (Map; 0511-859 8151; www.adibiantours.com; 56 Pasdaran Ave, Mashhad) Long-established agency specialising in Khorasan province, but able to arrange tours across Iran.
Aftab Kalout Eco-Tour ( 021-6648 8374/5, 0912 612 3768; www.kalout.com) Eco- and adventure-tour specialists, particularly desert tours. Based in Tehran.
Arg-e-Jadid (Map; 021-8883 3583; www.atc.ir; 296 Motahhari Ave, Tehran) Large organisation with lots of tour options; mixed reports on guides.
Caravan Sahra (Map; 021-8881 1970; www.caravansahra.com; Caravan Sahra Bldg, 29 Qaem Maqam-e Farahani Ave, Tehran) Big group with a big range of tours.
Pars Tourist Agency (Map; 0711-222 3163; www.key2persia.com; Zand Blvd, Shiraz) Highly professional, well-organised outfit dealing purely with foreign travellers. Has literally dozens of tour options, from highlights through cultural to mountaineering. Offer free online chat consultations in English, German and French.
Freelance guides can be found in most cities around the country. Some are mentioned in relevant chapters, and these few have been