Iran - Andrew Burke [42]
Kordish This style of weaving is centred in Bijar and, more famously, Sanandaj. The carpet terminology here is a bit confusing: Sanandaj carpets are woven using Turkish knots, but they’re still known as senneh carpets (elsewhere, senneh refers to Persian knots). These senneh carpets feature predominantly tribal patterns that are primarily geometric – hexagonal medallions are common. Senneh are reputed as relatively large, hard-wearing rugs and are made of natural dyes, often deep red with ivory highlights.
Hamadan This is the collection point for the tribal weavings of about 500 villages. Patterns are usually simple geometric designs woven of particularly durable wool from local mountain sheep. They are primarily mid-sized (between 1.5m x 2m and 2.5m x 3.5m), with vibrant reds and blues, usually flat-woven by hand using Turkish knots.
Qashqa’i These carpets are named after the confederation of six major subtribes concentrated in the mountains around Shiraz, who have been famous for their weaving for centuries. Their rugs, runners, kilims and saddle bags, in particular, are popular in bazaars in Shiraz and elsewhere. Patterns are usually geometric, including stylised animals and birds and floral designs in the borders. Pile is tight and thin but natural dyes are not always used – ask. The Qashqa’i also weave fine gabbeh, small, thick flat-woven rugs with loose pile. Designs are geometric but simple; khaki, green and red are common colours.
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Before buying, lie the carpet flat on the floor and check for bumps or other imperfections. Small bumps will usually flatten out with wear but big ones are probably there to stay; if you’re still sold on the carpet, look disappointed and expect a price cut. To check if a carpet is handmade, turn it over; on most handmade pieces the pattern will be distinct on the underside (the more distinct, the better the quality).
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For a more complete description of which carpets come from where, see www.oldcarpet.com and click through to Carpet By Zone.
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TAKING THEM HOME
Export regulations for carpets are notoriously changeable; ask a reputable dealer for the latest. At the time of writing there was no limit to the number of carpets you could take home. However, some larger, older and more valuable carpets cannot be exported without special permission. Export Restrictions for other details.
So you’ve got your carpet(s), and now it’s time to get them home. It’s usually cheaper carrying your carpets than posting them because you’re less likely to have to pay duty if you can get them through airport customs at home. Alternatively, most carpet dealers can arrange postage and costs are not outrageous. In most countries you can import up to 25 sq metres of Persian carpets before they start looking at you (and charging you) as a merchant; though you will probably still have to pay some duty. Allow between one and two months for it to land on your floor.
One reader reported that sanctions mean US customs are ‘quite strict’ about anything bought in Iran for more than US$100 – meaning most carpets.
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ARCHITECTURE
Persian architecture has a long and complex history, and is often regarded as the field in which Persia made its greatest contribution to world culture. As you travel through Iran its rich history – from home-grown empire to foreign domination – is dramatically chronicled in thousands of years’ worth of distinctive architecture.
Although Persian styles differ sharply from those of other Islamic architectural traditions, they have strongly influenced building throughout much of the Islamic world, especially in Central Asia, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. The two important religious influences on Persian architecture have been Zoroastrianism