Iran - Andrew Burke [54]
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Tehran’s Film Museum of Iran shows Iranian films and you can request subtitles (if available), and buy a huge array of DVDs. The annual Fajr Film Festival showcases the latest Iranian films.
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During the two days of mourning, boys and men dressed in black walk through city streets, hitting their chests and backs with chains called shallagh. Others play drums and brass instruments, lead the chanting, and carry flags and weapons symbolising the struggle against the infidels. The highlight for both participants and spectators comes when mounted warriors dressed in traditional fighting outfits re-enact the martyrdom of Hossein.
The groups then move to a public place where a temporary platform or stage has been erected. Here actors carrying dangerous-looking weapons continue to re-enact the martyrdom. The followers of Hossein are usually dressed in green (the colour of Islam), while the followers of his enemy Yezid are dressed in red. One actor has to play Shemr, the man believed to have killed Hossein. It’s a dangerous role because passions run high and audiences have become so caught up in the play that they have actually killed ‘Shemr’. Traditional poems are recited and dramatic songs sung to an accompaniment of Iranian flutes and drums. Many spectators openly weep while others pray.
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Food & Drink
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STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
IRANIAN MEALS
DRINKS
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
HABITS & CUSTOMS
EAT YOUR WORDS
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Far more than simply the fuel of empires, food in Iran has as long a story as the country itself. The dishes you eat today have evolved over three millennia, influenced by culture and environment.
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The ancient Persians believed eating walnuts in place of red meat made a person gentler, and that memory could be improved by eating dried red grapes before breakfast.
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Food plays a central role in honouring guests and celebrating special events, such as No Ruz (Click here). The way food is served draws on the ideas of ancient physicians, who carefully combined food and drink to maintain strength in both body and mind. Long before Weight Watchers, these wise Persians concluded that a good diet did not involve an excess of fats, red meats, starch or alcohol – these transformed men into wicked, selfish brutes. Instead, fruit, vegetables, chicken and fish were encouraged as the food of gentler, more respectable people. In practice, this philosophy is governed by a classification of foods dating back to Achaemenid times; see Persian Food Philosophy: It’s ‘Hot’ & ‘Cold’ (below).
Despite this, outside Tehran most restaurant menus are dominated by kababs (see opposite) and fast food. To enjoy the best cooking you really need to be invited into an Iranian home. Fortunately there’s a good chance that will happen. When it does, just say ‘yes’. As a guest you will be a ‘gift of God’ and the fabulous food and humbling hospitality should make for a meal you’ll remember for a lifetime. (Make sure you have a read up on etiquette; Click here.)
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PERSIAN FOOD PHILOSOPHY: IT’S ‘HOT’ & ‘COLD’
The Persian philosophy of food is to eat a balance of ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ foods to maintain good health. It’s not about the temperature a food is served at, but rather the ‘heating’ and/or ‘cooling’ effect food has on the body. As an ancient philosophy largely passed down by word of mouth, it’s not known exactly where or why these ideas originated. But the general belief is that ‘hot’ foods ‘thicken the blood’ and speed metabolism, while ‘cold’ foods ‘dilute the blood’ and slow the metabolism.
The philosophy extends to personalities and weather, too. Like foods, people are believed to have ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ natures. People with ‘hot’ natures should eat more ‘cold’ foods, and vice versa. And on cold days it’s best to eat ‘hot’ foods, and vice versa.
So what’s ‘hot’ and what’s not? Classifications vary across the country but it’s generally agreed that animal