Iran - Andrew Burke [56]
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GETTING DIZI
Known alternatively as abgusht (or as piti in Azerbaijan), dizi is a cheap soup-stew meal named for the earthenware pot in which it’s served. It’s considered by many Iranians as the food of the poor. But assuming you’re neither a vegetarian nor obsessive about cholesterol, it’s actually a delicious and filling dish. There is, however, an art to eating it. First, drain off the soupy broth into a bowl full of bread that you’ve previously ripped into bite-sized morsels. Eat this stew then turn to the main ingredients: chickpeas, potatoes, tomatoes and soft-boiled mutton. Grind these together using a provided metal pestle that looks disturbingly like a stylised toilet plunger. Do include the inevitable chunk of fat; it might look unappetising but adds taste and texture. Eat the resulting mush with a spoon or bread.
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After a couple of weeks, many travellers start suffering from what could be called ‘kabab shock’. However, it’s not too hard to find treatment. Even when not on the menu it’s worth asking for the common stand-by zereshk polo ba morgh (chicken on rice made tangy with barberries), ghorme sabzi (a green mix of diced meat, beans and vegetables, served with rice) or various mouthwatering dishes made from bademjan (eggplant; see Vegetarians & Vegans ).
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IRAN’S TOP TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS
Malek-o Tojjar (Yazd; ) In a restored mansion in the middle of the bazaar, this place is romance on a stick, and the food’s pretty good, too.
Haji Dadash (Zanjan; ) Cosy, characterful tea-cavern in Zanjan’s brilliant bazaar.
Yord Cultural Complex (Shiraz; ) A Bakhtiari nomad restaurant in a giant tent, with delicious food served on dozens of carpets accompanied by traditional music.
Sofrekhane ye Sonnati Ebrahimabad (Ardabil; ) With truly excellent food served in a superb medieval former-hammam (bathhouse), this place is by itself reason enough to visit Ardabil.
Sofrekhane ye Sonnati Darvish (Gorgan; ) Great for traditional music.
Sofrekhane Sonnati (Esfahan; ) Not as traditional as some, but a vast menu of delicious dishes (plenty of bademjan – eggplant – options), Imam Sq location and value make it a must.
Hezardestan Traditional Teahouse (Mashhad; ) Fabulous if somewhat pricey.
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But it doesn’t end there. Certain (usually down-market) eateries and many chaykhanehs (teahouses) specialise in underrated dizi (see Getting Dizi, Click here). Most restaurants will also serve one or another variety of khoresht (thick, usually meaty stew made with vegetables and chopped nuts, then served with rice and/or French fries). However, in some less popular restaurants khoresht has been known to live in big pots for days before reaching the plate, so if you have a suspect stomach think twice.
Dolme (vegetables, fruit or vine leaves stuffed with a meat-and-rice mixture) makes a tasty change. Dolme bademjan (stuffed eggplant) is especially delectable. The Persian classic fesenjun (sauce of grated pomegranate, walnuts, eggplant and cardamom served over roast chicken and rice) is rarely found in restaurants, but you might get lucky and be served fesenjun in an Iranian home, which is quite an honour.
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‘Khosh ma-ze’ means ‘delicious’. Even if your Farsi is terrible, being able to tell the cook/chef their food is khosh ma-ze will be fun for you and greatly appreciated by them.
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In Western Iran and on the Persian Gulf coast chelo mahi (fried fish on rice) is quite common in season while on the Caspian coast it’s relatively easy to find the heavenly mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg, served with bread or rice).
Dessert & Sweets
After-meal dessert is usually a bowl of delicious fruit. However, Iran produces a head-spinning array of freshly made shirini (sweets) with many places famous for a particular sweet: Esfahan is famed for its nougat-like gaz; Qom for sohan (a brittle concoction of pistachio and ginger); Orumiyeh for noghl (sugar-coated nuts); and Kerman