Iran - Andrew Burke [58]
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ISLAMIC BEER BUT NO SHIRAZ
Try to think of your trip to Iran as a cleansing experience, where your body can recover from all that overexposure to alcoholic toxins. Okay, so this might not work, but at least you’ll feel better about not being able to get a drink. While alcohol is quietly tolerated in Christian communities, such as the Armenian areas of Tehran and Esfahan, it is strictly forbidden to Iranian Muslims. There is, of course, a black market – oddly enough often operated by green grocers – and you’ll occasionally hear a man whisper ‘whiskey’ as you go by. But, believe us, the sickly sweet clear spirit you’ll likely be sold is rocket fuel by any other name.
If you’re desperate for a beer, there’s always ma’-osh-sha’ir (‘Islamic beer’). Actually, there are several brands of locally produced and imported beer proudly declaring ‘0.0% alcohol’. Russian-made Baltika tastes the most like beer. Delster, which comes in several fruit ‘flavours’, is the most popular local variety, mainly because it doesn’t even pretend that it’s trying to taste like beer. The lemon version is pleasantly refreshing.
Sadly, the chance of finding a glass of Shiraz (aka Syrah wine) in Shiraz is only marginally greater than seeing swimsuit models at Persepolis. There are various theories on the origin of this grape varietal, most involving cuttings being taken from vineyards in Shiraz back to the Rhone valley in France during the Crusades. Iranian vines were either ripped up after the 1979 revolution or now produce raisins. Today there are no (legal) wineries.
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Simple kababis selling kababs and cold drinks are popular, particularly around major meydans (squares); just follow your nose. These places are usually fairly clean, but remember that the popularity of the eatery is inversely proportional to your chances of spending the next 24 hours on the porcelain throne, so eat where the locals eat.
Some no-frills places serve ash-e sabzi (thick, green vegetable soup) all day. It makes a delicious, cheap breakfast or lunch; just look for the huge metal dish and mountains of bread.
The Iranian infatuation with ‘pizza’ seems to be out of control. In many cities it will be easier to find pizzas and burgers than kabab. Beware that Iranian pizza is rarely to Western tastes with a flabby base, tasteless cheese and a thick layer of anaemic (porkless) sausage. Tomato paste isn’t part of the recipe, though locals slosh on tomatoe sauce (ketchup) to taste.
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VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
Vegetarianism is foreign to most Iranians. Sure, there are a lot of good vegetarian dishes in Iranian cuisine, but most restaurants don’t make them. Even if there is an ostensibly meat-free dish on the menu, such as ash-e reshte (noodle soup with beans and vegetables), it will often come with ‘bonus’ pieces of mutton. Tehran was the only place we found dedicated vegetarian restaurants (two of them, Click here), but more should open in coming years, with the help of the Iranian Society of Vegetarians (www.iranvege tarians.com).
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The anar (pomegranate) is native to the region around Iran and is eaten fresh and incorporated in a range of Persian dishes most famously in fesenjun, but also in ash-e anar (pomegranate soup) and in rich red ab anar (pomegranate juice).
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Solace can be found, however, in the felafels, samosas and potatoes sold in street stalls, and in the Persian mastery of all things bademjan. In our opinion one of the highlights of Iranian cuisine is the meatless Caspian dish mirza ghasemi (see Cut the Caviar – Gilan Cuisine, Click here). Meanwhile, the various kuku (thick omelette dishes) make great snacks, served hot or cold. Varieties include kuku-ye sabzi (with mixed herbs), kuku-e-ye bademjan (with eggplant) and kuku-e-ye gol-e kalam (with cauliflower).
Vegans will have a hard time finding anything completely free