Iran - Andrew Burke [68]
Streets are also named after buzzwords of the revolution and key Islamic phrases. These include Valiasr, which means ‘Prince of this Time’ and is a nickname for Mahdi, the 12th imam, who will one day return as the messiah; Azadi, which translates to ‘freedom’; Jomhuri-ye Eslami, which means ‘Islamic Republic’; and Enqelab, which means ‘revolution’. For more on these and other Iranian personalities, see www.iranchamber.com/personalities.
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Maps
If you’re only stopping in Tehran for a few days and seeing the major sights, the maps in this chapter – redrawn from aerial photographs – should be adequate. You’ll need a more detailed map if you want to visit remote suburbs, or – if you have an uncontrollable yearning for danger – drive. Your best bet is to get the latest Tehran map from Gita Shenasi (Map; 6670 9335; www.gitashenasi.com; 15 Ostad Shahrivar St, Razi St, Valiasr Crossroads, Enqelab-e Eslami Ave; 8am-6pm Sat-Wed & 8am-1pm Thu). It will be big and comprehensive, and is updated most years – push the buzzer to be let in.
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INFORMATION
Bookshops
For English-language books, the Book City chain is your best option. Elsewhere, the dozens of bookshops on Enqelab Ave opposite Tehran University – one of the longest stretches of bookshops on earth – have a few English titles among their mainly Farsi stock. Most top-end hotels sell books (mainly pictorials) about Iran, as do the National Museum of Iran and Sa’d Abad Museum Complex.
Book City Hafez Store (Map; 8880 5735; 743 Nth Hafez St) The biggest store of the best chain of bookshops. A decent range of fiction and nonfiction in English (mostly on the 3rd floor), and plenty of pictorials on Iran (1st floor).
Book City Niyavaran Store (Map; 2228 5969; Shahid Bahonar St, near Kamranieh Crossing) Some people like this store even more than the Hafez store, though the fun police have closed the attached café.
Di Rouz Em Rouz Ancien Livres (Map; 8888 8844; Khoddami St, off Valiasr Ave; by appointment or by chance) Old books in English, French, German and Italian. Some rare works on Iran. Mr Afshar is stimulating conversation.
Jahanelm Institute (Map; 6695 0324; Enqelab Ave) Magazines ranging from the Economist to Vogue. It’s on the floor below ground level in a large arcade with red-painted trim.
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TEHRAN IN…
Two Days
Start early in the Tehran Bazar watching the hustling, bustling and haggling of the country’s biggest market. Stop in Imam Khomeini Mosque at prayer time for a taste of Islam in action, then walk up to Park-e Shahr for some head space and lunch at the Sofre Khane Sonnati Sangalag. Spend the afternoon looking at the ancient wonders of the National Museum of Iran, then take a shuttle taxi down to Rah Ahan Sq and the Azari Traditional Teahouse for some well-earned chay (tea) and a special meal. On day two, check out the Golestan Palace, then after a coffee with the paper at Cafe Naderi, head down for the 2pm viewing of the National Jewels Museum. Round the day out with some alternative cuisine in northern Tehran.
Four Days
Follow the two-day plan, then head north to check out the Sa’d Abad Museum Complex before hiking from Darband across to Park-e Jamshidiyeh. Use your last day to take in the relaxed Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art and Park-e Laleh, perhaps take in an art gallery to meet young Tehranis and chill out in the cafés of Gandhi Ave.
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Emergency
If your emergency is not life threatening, your embassy or your hotel’s front desk should be able to send you to the most appropriate hospital or police station and perhaps help with translation. If that is impossible, call one of these numbers:
Ambulance (115)
Fire Brigade (125)
Police (110)
Internet Access
Internet cafés, or coffeenets as they’re called here, open and close at a remarkable rate in Tehran – and that’s even before the government steps in with regular crackdowns. However, the following places have been around for years and hopefully will not have disappeared into cyberspace