Iran - Andrew Burke [84]
The tower forms part of the Tehran International Trade and Convention Centre, a vast expanse of ground that includes the 500-room Yadman Hotel, though when it will open is unknown.
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SLEEPING
Tehran’s accommodation largely follows the city’s social breakdown, so budget places are in the poorer south, and the options get more expensive as you go north. Capital-city syndrome means room rates are generally higher than elsewhere in Iran.
The business district is between Enqelab Ave and Keshavarz Blvd, where you’ll also find several three-star standard business hotels. Tehran’s pre-Revolution era ‘five- star’ hotels are most interesting for the disco-era décor and ornamental outdoor swimming pools. Service and everything else isn’t great. The best top-end places are boutique-sized affairs on Valiasr Ave, Tehran’s main north–south artery, in the north of the city. They are not exactly Ritz standards, but they’re good value.
If you don’t have a booking, try telephoning your chosen hotel when you arrive and bargaining, then taking a taxi to check it out. Your taxi will usually wait until you’re satisfied, and if you’re not, will take you to the next place on your list. Listings here are ordered by price, from cheapest to most expensive.
Budget
Mashhad Hotel (Map; 3311 3062; www.mashhadhotel.homestead.com; 416Amir Kabir St; dm/s/tw IR40,000/60,000/80,000; ) The rooms and shared bathrooms are tiny, but the mainly helpful management have long made it the choice for those on the tightest budgets. There’s only one shower, however, and front rooms are horrendously noisy. Don’t confuse this Mashhad with the midrange Mashad Hotel, near the former US embassy.
Mosaferkhaneh Amol Mazandaran (Map; 3394 1630; www.amolmazandaran.com; Amin Darbar Alley, off Amir Kabir St; s/tw/tr IR60,000/80,000/120,000; ) Set around a small courtyard away from the noise of Amir Kabir St, this 22-room place is one of the best deals in the area for its price, friendly managers and location above a very local chaykhaneh (teahouse). Rooms are simple, but clean, as are the shared bathrooms. It’s about 150m south of Amir Kabir St, on the right. There’s no English sign.
Hotel Khazar Sea (Map; 3311 3860; Ohadi Alley, off Amir Kabir St; s/tw IR65,000/80,000) If you don’t mind a bit of peeling paint and a walk to the bathroom, this no-frills place set around a courtyard is welcoming, quiet and good value. The manager speaks some English. It’s in the second lane on the left as you head east of the intersection of Amir Kabir and Mellat Sts.
Hotel Tehran Gol (Map; 3311 3477; Amir Kabir St; s/tw IR70,000/100,000) The basic rooms here have a basin inside and are marginally more spacious than the hotel’s neighbours, though front rooms are still very noisy. There’s not much English. Bathrooms are shared.
Firouzeh Hotel (Map; 3311 3508; www.firouzehhotel.com; Dowlat Abad Alley, off Amir Kabir St; s/tw with breakfast IR110,000/160,000; ) If ever there was a hotel whose atmosphere revolved around one man, this is it. Mr Mousavi is the very personification of Persian hospitality, and his enthusiasm, useful information, help with bookings (including day trips to the ski fields) and wonderful guest book make an otherwise unremarkable little hotel in cheap southern Tehran worth the stay. The smallish rooms come with cable TV, fridge and bathrooms with shower and basin; toilets are shared. The best budget option.
Iran Central Guest House (Hotel Markazi; Map; 3391 4798; cnr Zavareian & Lalehzar Sts; s/tw IR100,000/160,000, with bathroom IR180,000/225,000) The small, recently renovated rooms are clean