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Iran - Andrew Burke [94]

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Airlines (Map; 8855 0156; 1st fl, 29 Khaled Eslamboli St) Next door to Coco Restaurant.

Azerbaijan Airlines (Map; 8855 3335; Khaled Eslamboli St)

British Airways (Map; 2204 4552; 10th fl, Sayyeh Tower, cnr Valiasr Ave & Sayyeh St)

Emirates (Map; 8134 1480; 1211 Valiasr Ave)

Gulf Air (Map; 2225 3284-7; Nejatollahi St)

Iran Air (Map; 8880 8472; Nejatollahi St) Sells only international tickets; use a travel agent for domestic flights.

Iran Aseman (Map; 8889 5568; www.iaa.com; Nejatollahi St)

KLM (Map; 2204 4757; 12th fl, Sayyeh Bldg, cnr Valiasr Ave & Sayyeh St)

Lufthansa & Austrian Airlines (Map; 8873 8701; 2 Sarafraz St, off Dr Beheshti Ave)

Qatar Airways (Map; 2201 5217-18; 2nd fl, Sayyeh Bldg, cnr Valiasr Ave & Sayyeh St)

Turkish Airlines (Map; 8874 8450; 239 Motahhari Ave)

INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS

Customs and immigration procedures at IKIA are slow but generally hassle-free. Bags are usually X-rayed as you leave the baggage hall, but tourists are seldom hassled. Two banks in the arrivals hall can change money at good rates, which you’ll need to do to pay for your taxi – there is no public transport from IKIA. The ladies at tourist information have simple maps but little else.

INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURES

The hardest part about leaving Tehran is getting to the airport on time. Unless your flight is very early or very late, give yourself well over an hour to get through the traffic from central Tehran, then at least 90 minutes to get through customs and immigration. Be sure to tell your taxi driver the correct airport (most likely IKIA). If you have changed money legally at a bank, and have a receipt to prove it, you can convert unused rials into cash euros.

Bus

Masses of buses link Tehran to just about every city and town in the country. Tehran has four bus terminals so you need to work out which station is best for your trip. For more general advice on bus travel, Click here.

Tickets are usually bought at the bus terminal, and with services to major destinations leaving so frequently you don’t usually need to book ahead. However, Iran’s largest bus company Iran Peyma (Taavoni 1; Map; 6671 9857; Ferdosi St; 8.30am-4.30pm Sat-Wed, 8.30am-noon Thu) does have a conveniently central office near Ferdosi Sq that sells tickets.

The following tables show services to major destinations on direct buses from Tehran. Where only one price is listed it will be for a Volvo bus or similar; two prices are for mahmooly/Volvo.

CENTRAL TERMINAL (TERMINAL-E ARZHANTIN)

The central terminal (Arzhantin, Sayro Safar or Beyhaqi terminal; Map; 8873 2535; Arzhantin Sq) is accessible by taxis, shuttle taxis and local buses from around Tehran. All buses from this terminal are Volvos and prices are usually a little higher than other terminals. This list includes some departure times, though in most cases there will be more.

EASTERN TERMINAL (TERMINAL-E SHARGH)

The compact eastern terminal (off Map; 7786 8080) has buses to Khorasan province and the Caspian region. Hopefully Metro Line 2 will soon reach the terminal; otherwise, take a shuttle taxi to Imam Hossein Sq, and then another shuttle taxi, or try the trolleybus directly to the terminal. A private taxi will cost about IR40,000 from central Tehran. Iran Peyma and Taavoni 14 have the most services from this terminal. Prices here are for mahmooly/Volvo buses.

SOUTHERN TERMINAL (TERMINAL-E JONUB)

The huge, round southern terminal (terminal-e jonub; Map) has buses heading to the south and southeast of the city.

To get to the southern terminal take Metro Line 1 to Terminal-e Jonub (then walk about 300m) or grab a shuttle taxi south. Coming from here by taxi, prepare to spend some time negotiating a decent fare.

Departure times in the following table are the minimum you can expect, and where only one price is quoted it is for a Volvo or similar bus. Otherwise, prices are for mahmooly/Volvo buses.

WESTERN TERMINAL (TERMINAL-E GHARB OR TERMINAL-E AZADI)

The western terminal (terminal-e gharb; Map; 4465 9695 ext 233) is the city’s busiest terminal, catering for the Caspian

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