Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [116]
Linking much of Wicklow’s attractions is the 132km-long Wicklow Way, the country’s foremost walking trail and – if you’ve got the legs for it – still the best and most satisfying way to explore the county. From the suburbs of southern Dublin to the rolling fields of County Carlow, the Way leads walkers along disused military supply lines, old bog roads and nature trails over the eastern flanks of the mountains.
National Parks
Wicklow Mountains National Park covers more than 170 sq km of mountainous blanket bogs and woodland. Plans to extend it will eventually see virtually all of the higher ground stretching the length of the mountains fall under the protection of the national park, which will cover more than 300 sq km.
Within the boundaries of the protected area are two nature reserves, owned and managed by the Heritage Service, and legally protected by the Wildlife Act. The larger reserve, west of the Glendalough Visitor Centre, conserves the extensive heath and bog of the Glendalough Valley plus the Upper Lake and valley slopes on either side. The second, Glendalough Wood Nature Reserve, conserves oak woods stretching from the Upper Lake as far as the Rathdrum road to the east.
Most of Ireland’s native mammal species can be found within the confines of the park. Large herds of deer roam on the open hill areas, though these were introduced in the 20th century as the native red-deer population became extinct during the first half of the 18th century. The uplands are the preserve of foxes, badgers and hares. Red squirrels are usually found in the pine woodlands – look out for them around the Upper Lake.
The bird population of the park is plentiful. Birds of prey abound, the most common being peregrine falcons, marlins, kestrels, hawks and sparrowhawks. Hen harriers are a rarer sight, though they too live in the park. Moorland birds found in the area include meadow pipits and skylarks. Less common birds such as whinchats, ring ouzels and dippers can be spotted, as can red grouse, whose numbers are quickly disappearing in other parts of Ireland. For information, call in or contact the National Park Information Point (Map; 0404-45425; www.wicklownationalpark.ie; Bolger’s Cottage, Miners’ Rd, Upper Lake, Glendalough; 10am-6pm May-Sep, to dusk Sat & Sun Oct-Apr), off the Green Rd that runs by the Upper Lake, about 2km from the Glendalough Visitor Centre. There’s usually someone on hand to help, but if you find it closed the staff may be out running guided walks. Exploring the Glendalough Valley (Heritage Service; €2) is a good booklet on the trails in the area.
Getting There & Away
It’s a cinch to get to Wicklow from Dublin. The main routes through the county are the N11 (M11), which runs north–south from Dublin all the way through to Wexford, taking in all of the coastal towns; and the N81, which runs down the western spine of the county through Blessington and into County Carlow. The Dublin Area Rapid Transport (DART) suburban rail line runs southward from Dublin as far as Bray, and there are regular train and bus connections from the capital to Wicklow town and Arklow.
For Glendalough, St Kevin’s Bus ( 01-281 8119; www.glendaloughbus.com) runs twice daily from Dublin and Bray, also stopping in Roundwood. For the western parts of the county, Dublin Bus 65 runs regularly as far as Blessington. For more details, see the Getting There & Away section for each town.
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WICKLOW MOUNTAINS
As you leave Dublin and cross into Wicklow, the landscape changes – dramatically. From Killakee, still in Dublin, the Military Rd begins a 30km southward journey across vast sweeps of gorse-, bracken- and heather-clad moors, bogs and mountains dotted with small corrie lakes.
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