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point in the day. Perhaps this influenced his largely informal style, which resulted in a magnificent blend of landscaped gardens, sweeping terraces, statuary, ornamental lakes, secret hollows, rambling walks and walled enclosures replete with more than 200 types of trees and shrubs, all beneath the stunning natural backdrop of the Great Sugarloaf Mountain to the southeast. Tickets come with a map laying out 40-minute and hour-long tours of the gardens. Don’t miss the exquisite Japanese Gardens or the Pepperpot Tower, modelled on a three-inch actual pepperpot owned by Lady Wingfield. Our own favourite, however, is the animal cemetery, final resting place of the Wingfield pets and even some of their favourite milking cows. Some of the epitaphs are astonishingly personal.

A 7km walk to a separate part of the estate takes you to the 130m Powerscourt Waterfall (adult/child/student €5/3.50/4.50; 9.30am-7pm May-Aug, 10.30am-5.30pm Mar-Apr & Sep-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Jan). It’s the highest waterfall in Britain and Ireland, and is most impressive after heavy rain. You can also get to the falls by road, following the signs from the estate. A nature trail has been laid out around the base of the waterfall, taking you past giant redwoods, ancient oaks, beech, birch and rowan trees. There are plenty of birds in the vicinity, including the chaffinch, cuckoo, chiffchaff, raven and willow warbler.

TOURS

All tours that take in Powerscourt start in Dublin.

Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111; www.buseireann.ie; Busáras; adult/child/student €28.80/22.50/25.20; 10am mid-Mar–Oct) A whole-day tour that takes in Powerscourt and Glendalough (all admissions included), departing from Busáras (Map).

Dublin Bus Tours (Map; 01-872 0000; www.dublinbus.ie; 59 Upper O’Connell St; adult/child €25/12; 11am) A visit to Powerscourt is included in the four-hour South Coast & Gardens tour, which takes in the stretch of coastline between Dun Laoghaire and Killiney before turning inland to Wicklow and on to Enniskerry. Admission to the gardens is included.

Gray Line Tours (Map; 01-872 9010; www.irishcitytours.com; Gresham Hotel, O’Connell St; adult/student/child €35/32/25; 10am Fri-Sun) Incorporating Wicklow’s big hits – Powerscourt, Glendalough and the lakes and a stop at Avoca, then takes in Dun Laoghaire and Dalkey (includes admission to Glendalough visitor centre and Powerscourt, but not coffee).

SLEEPING

Coolakay House ( 01-286 2423; www.coolakayhouse.com; Waterfall Rd, Coolakay; s/d from €40/80; ) A modern working farm about 3km south of Enniskerry (it is signposted along the road), this is a great option for walkers along the Wicklow Way. The four bedrooms are all very comfortable and have terrific views, but the real draw is the restaurant, which does a roaring trade in snacks and full meals (mains around €11).

Summerhill House Hotel ( 01-286 7928; www.summerhillhousehotel.com; r from €110; ) A truly superb country mansion about 700m south of town just off the N11 is the best place around to lay your head, on soft cotton pillows surrounded by delicate antiques and pastoral views in oils. Everything about the place – including the top-notch breakfast – is memorable.

The nearest youth hostel is in Glencree, 10km west of here.

EATING

Powerscourt Terrace Café ( 01-204 6070; Powerscourt House; mains €8-13; 10am-5pm) The folks at Avoca Handweavers have applied all their know-how and turned what could have easily been just another run-of-the-mill tourist-attraction cafe into something of a gourmet experience. A slice of quiche on the terrace, overlooking the gardens in the shadow of the Great Sugarloaf? Yes, please.

Emilia’s Ristorante ( 01-276 1834; www.emilias.ie; Clock Tower, The Square; mains €12-16; 5-10.45pm Mon-Sat, noon-9.30pm Sun) A lovely 1st-floor restaurant to satisfy even the most ardent craving for thin-crust pizzas. Emilia’s does everything else just right too, from the organic soups to the perfect steaks down to the gorgeous meringue desserts.

Poppies Country Cooking ( 01-282 8869; The Square; mains around €9; 8.30am-6pm) If the service