Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [124]
If you’re planning to stay at Glenmalure Hostel (Click here), rather than go all the way down to the crossroads in Glenmalure, follow the Way from the left turn for about 1km southwards. At an oblique junction where the Way turns southeast, bear left in a westerly direction and descend steeply to the road in Glenmalure. The hostel is about 2km northwest.
To continue straight on along the Way from the left turn, follow forest roads south then southeast for 1.6km to a wide zigzag above open ground, then contour the steep slope, swing northeast and drop down to a minor road beside two bridges. Continue down to an intersection and Glenmalure; it’s about 1¼ hours from the saddle.
The Way presses straight on (south) through the crossroads for 500m, across the River Avonbeg and past silent Drumgoff Barracks, built in 1803 but long since derelict, then right along a forest track. Keep left past a ruined cottage and start to gain height in two fairly long reaches; go through two left turns then it’s down and across a stream. About 800m further on, turn right along a path to start the long ascent almost to the top of Slieve Maan (550m) via four track junctions, maintaining a southwesterly to south-southwesterly direction. Back on a forest track, the Way turns left (southeast) close to unforested ground to the west. With a few more convoluted turns, you’re out of the trees and on a path between the plantation and the road (mapped as the Military Rd). The Way eventually meets the latter beside a small tributary of the River Aghavannagh (two hours from Glenmalure).
Walk down the road for about 250m, then turn off left along a forest track, shortly bearing left to gain height steadily on a wide path over Carrickashane Mountain (508m). Descend steeply to a wide forest road and continue down for about 1km. Bear right to reach a minor road and turn right. Leave the road 500m further on and drop down to another road – Iron Bridge is just to the right (an hour from Military Rd).
Walk 150m up to a road and turn left; follow this road down the valley of the River Ow for 7.5km to a junction – Aughrim is to the left, another 500m. Buses along the Dublin to Wexford line stop here.
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Glendalough Hermitages ( 0404-45140, for bookings 45777; www.hermitage.dublindiocese.ie; St Kevin’s Parish Church, Glendalough; s/d €45/70) In an effort to recreate something of the contemplative spirit of Kevin’s early years in the valley, St Kevin’s Parish Church rents out five cillíns (hermitages) for folks looking to take time out from the bustle of daily life and reflect on more spiritual matters. In keeping with modern needs, however, there are a few more facilities than were present in Kevin’s cave. Each hermitage is a bungalow consisting of a bedroom, a bathroom, a small kitchen area and an open fire supplemented by a storage heating facility. The whole venture is managed by the local parish, and while there is a strong spiritual emphasis here, it is not necessarily a Catholic one. Visitors of all denominations and creeds are welcome, so long as their intentions are reflective and meditative; backpackers looking for a cheap place to bed down are not. The hermitages are in a field next to St Kevin’s Parish Church, about 1km east of Glendalough on the R756 to Laragh.
Glendale ( 0404-45410; www.glendale-glendalough.com; Laragh East; s/d €70/80, cottage per week €355-480; ) This is an immaculately modern and tidy B&B with large, comfortable rooms. Also available are five modern self-catering cottages that sleep six. Every cottage has all the mod cons, from TV and video to a fully equipped kitchen complete with microwave, dishwasher and washer-dryer. The owners will also drop you off in Glendalough if you don’t fancy the walk.
Glendalough Hotel ( 0404-45135; www.glendaloughhotel.com; s/d €118/164;