Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [127]
The admission price includes a 45-minute tour of the house, which is decorated in typical Georgian style, and all the important paintings, which, given the history, is a monumental exercise in staying positive. Whatever you do, make no sudden moves.
ACTIVITIES
Rathsallagh Golf Club ( 045-403 316; www.rathsallaghhousehotel.com; green fees hotel guest/visitor from €60/65) is known – somewhat optimistically – as ‘Augusta without the Azelias’, but it is still one of the best parkland courses in Ireland, stretching over 6.5km amid mature trees, small lakes and shallow streams.
SLEEPING & EATING
Haylands House ( 045-865 183; haylands@eircom.net; Dublin Rd; s/d from €40/70; ) We highly recommend this modern bungalow for its lovely rooms (all with en-suite bathrooms), warm welcome and excellent breakfast. It’s only 500m out of town on the main Dublin road. As it’s popular, book early if you can.
Rathsallagh House & Country Club ( 045-403 112; www.rathsallaghhousehotel.com; Dunlavin; mains €33-42, s/d from €135/260) About 20km south of Blessington, this fabulous country manor, converted from Queen Anne stables in 1798, is more than just a fancy hotel. Luxury is par for the course here, from the splendidly appointed rooms to the exquisite country-house dining (the food here is some of the best you’ll eat anywhere in Ireland) and the marvellous golf course that surrounds the estate. Even the breakfast is extraordinary: it has won the National Breakfast Award three times. Is there anything Irish tourism doesn’t have an award for?
Grangecon Café ( 045-857 892; Tullow Rd; mains €11-18; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) Salads, home-baked dishes and a full menu of Irish cheeses are the staples at this tiny, terrific cafe in a converted schoolhouse. Everything here – from the pasta to the delicious apple juice – is made on the premises and many of the ingredients are organic. A short but solid menu represents the best of Irish cooking.
Russborough House hosts a monthly farmers market ( 087-611 5016; 10am-4pm, first Sun of the month) that goes indoors during the winter months.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Blessington is 35km southwest of Dublin on the N81. There are regular daily services by Dublin Bus ( 01-872 0000, 01-873 4222); catch bus 65 from Eden Quay in Dublin (€4.50, 1½ hours, every 1½ hours). Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates express bus 005 to and from Waterford, with stops in Blessington two or three times daily; from Dublin it’s pick-up only, and from Waterford drop-off only.
Glen of Imaal
About 7km southeast of Donard, the lovely Glen of Imaal is about the only scenery of consequence on the western flanks of the Wicklow Mountains. It’s named after Mal, brother of the 2nd-century king of Ireland, Cathal Mór. Unfortunately, the glen’s northeastern slopes are mostly cordoned off as an army firing range and for manoeuvres. Look out for red danger signs.
The area’s most famous son was Michael Dwyer, who led rebel forces during the 1798 Rising and held out for five years in the local hills and glens. On the southeastern side of the glen at Derrynamuck is a small whitewashed, thatched cottage where Dwyer and three friends were surrounded by 100 English soldiers. One of Dwyer’s companions, Samuel McAllister, ran out the front, drawing fire and meeting his death, while Dwyer escaped into the night. He was eventually deported in 1803 and jailed on Norfolk Island, off the eastern coast of Australia. He became chief constable of Liverpool, near Sydney, before he died in 1825. The cottage is now a small folk museum ( 0404-45325; Derrynamuck; admission free; 2-6pm mid-Jun–Sep) located on the Knockanarrigan–Rathdangan