Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [134]
Iarnród Éireann ( 01-836 6222) serves Rathdrum from Dublin on the main Dublin to Rosslare Harbour line (one way/return €15.50/19.50, 11/2 hours, five daily).
Vale of Avoca
In summer, tour buses and other interested parties clog the road through the scenic Vale of Avoca on their way to the renowned mills in the eponymous village. En route, tourists ooh and aah at the gorgeous scenery of the darkly wooded valley that begins where the Rivers Avonbeg and Avonmore come together to form the River Avoca. This is a lovely spot suitably named the Meeting of the Waters, made famous by Thomas Moore’s 1808 poem of the same name.
The Meeting of the Waters is marked by a pub called the Meetings ( 0402-35226; www.themeetingsavoca.com; noon-9pm), which serves food (mains €10 to €15) and has music at weekends year-round. There are céilidh (traditional music and dancing sessions) between 4pm and 6pm Sunday, April to October. There’s also a guesthouse attached (known as Robin’s Nest) with decent, clean rooms (single/double €45/75). Buses to Avoca from Dublin stop at the Meetings, or you can walk from Avoca, 3km south of here.
Avoca
pop 570
The tiny village of Avoca (Abhóca) still trades on being the setting for the now-defunct BBC TV series Ballykissangel, but the main reason to visit is to amble about – and hopefully spend loads of money in – the birthplace of the superstar of all Irish cottage industries, Avoca Handweavers ( 35105; www.avoca.ie; Old Mill, Main St; 9am-6pm May-Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr), housed in Ireland’s oldest working mill.
It’s been turning out linens, wools and other fabrics since 1723, and much of Avoca’s much-admired line is produced here. You are free to wander in and out of the weaving sheds.
Just in case you might want some local info, the tourist office ( 0402-35022; Old Courthouse; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) is in the library.
SLEEPING
River Valley Park ( 0402-41647; www.rivervalleypark.com; campsites €12, mobile homes €330-620) This well-equipped campsite is about 1km south of the village of Redcross, 7km northeast of Avoca on the R754 country road. It has mobile homes for rent that sleep up to six, and also includes a Secret Garden on the grounds for adults only.
Koliba ( /fax 0402-32737; www.koliba.com; Beech Rd; s/d €52/75; Apr-Oct) A thoroughly modern bungalow with comfortable, well-appointed rooms (all with en-suite bathrooms). Koliba is 3km out of Avoca on the Arklow road.
Sheepwalk House & Cottages ( 0402-35189; www.sheepwalk.com; Arklow Rd; s/d €60/80, cottages per week €250-660) Built in 1727 for the Earl of Wicklow, this is our favourite place to stay in Avoca (although it’s 2km out of town). The main house is splendid, with beautifully appointed rooms, while the converted outbuildings – complete with beamed ceilings, fireplaces and flagstone floors – are a wonderful option for groups of four or six.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111; www.buseireann.ie) operates bus 133 from Dublin, which serves Avoca via Bray, Wicklow and Rathdrum on its way to Arklow (one way/return €10.60/14.20, two hours, 10 daily).
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ARKLOW
pop 9955
Wicklow’s biggest and busiest town is a thriving commercial centre built around what was once an important local port. Although this may not inspire you to change route and come here, chances are if you’re in this part of the county you’ll probably end up here anyway. There’s a local belief that the town is included in Ptolemy’s 2nd-century map of Europe, but what is absolutely verifiable is that Sir Francis Chichester’s prize-winning transatlantic yacht Gypsy Moth III was built here.
The town’s seafaring past is explored in the small maritime museum ( 0402-32868; St Mary’s Rd; admission €3; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, closed Sat rest of year), which features a model of the Titanic, some salvaged items from the Lusitania and an extraordinary model of a ship – made from 10,000 matchsticks.
For all other info, there’s the tourist office ( 0402-32484; www.arklow.ie; 9.30am-1pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep)