Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [136]
The college buildings are impressive – Gothic architect Augustus Pugin had a hand in designing them – and well worth an hour’s ramble. You enter the college via Georgian Stoyte House, where the accommodation office ( 01-708 3576; 8.30am-5.30pm & 8-11pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-11pm Sat & Sun) sells booklets (€4.50) for guiding yourself around. In summer there’s also a visitor centre ( 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep) and a small science museum (admission by donation; 2-4pm Tue & Thu, to 6pm Sun May-Sep). The college grounds contain a number of lofty Georgian and neo-Gothic buildings, gardens and squares, but the highlight of the tour has to be the College Chapel. Pull open the squeaky door and you enter the world’s largest choir chapel, with stalls for more than 450 choristers and some magnificent ornamentation.
MAYNOOTH CASTLE
Near the entrance to St Patrick’s College you can see the ruined gatehouse, keep and great hall of 13th-century Maynooth Castle ( 01-628 6744; admission free; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 1-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 1-5pm Sun Oct), home of the Fitzgerald family. The castle was dismantled in Cromwellian times, when the Fitzgeralds moved to Kilkea Castle. Entry is by a 45-minute guided tour only; there’s a small exhibition on the castle’s history in the keep.
Activities
CANOEING
Leixlip, on the River Liffey between Maynooth and Dublin, is an important canoeing centre and the starting point of the annual 28km International Liffey Descent Race (www.liffeydescent.com). Usually held in early September, the race attracts more than 1000 competitors. For more information on canoeing in Ireland, try Canoeing Ireland (www.canoe.ie).
GOLF
On the edge of town, Carton House ( 01-651 7720; www.cartonhousegolf.ie; green fees €90 Sun-Wed, €110 Thu-Sat) is home to two outstanding 18-hole championship courses designed by Colin Montgomery and Mark O’Meara respectively. See the following Carton House sleeping review for details of the attached hotel.
Sleeping
Maynooth is quite lacking when it comes to B&B accommodation.
NUI Maynooth ( 01-708 6200; www.maynoothcampus.com; s €30-100, d €48-126; ) The university campus can accommodate 1000 guests in seven types of room, ranging from a traditional college room to doubles in an apartment in the purpose-built university village. Most are in the mid-1970s North Campus, but rooms are better in the South Campus, where the accommodation office is. These are strewn around the courts and gardens of atmospheric St Patrick’s College. Availability is best in the summer months.
Glenroyal Hotel & Leisure Club ( 01-629 0909; www.glenroyal.ie; Straffan Rd; r from €79; ) This modern 113-room hotel is tailored to business travellers and weddings. The design is bog standard but the rooms are spacious and spotless, with high-speed internet, and there are two swimming pools.
Carton House ( 01-505 2000; www.cartonhouse.com; r from €150; ) It really doesn’t get any grander than this vast, early 19th-century estate set on over 1000 acres of lavish grounds. The interiors belie the Palladian exterior and are stylishly minimalist. As you’d expect, the beautiful rooms come equipped with all the latest high-tech gadgetry. To reach the hotel, follow the R148 east towards Leixlip along the Royal Canal.
Eating
Kehoe’s ( 01-628 6533; Main St; meals €6-10; 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) The place for a classic Irish breakfast, Kehoe’s offers a warm, trad welcome to its small and cosy quarters. There are numerous daily lunch specials.
Mohana ( 01-505 4868; www.mohanaindianrestaurant.com; Main St; mains €13; noon-2.30pm & 5-11pm) Several cuts above the usual curry joint,