Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [140]
Sights
ST BRIGID’S CATHEDRAL
The solid presence of 13th-century St Brigid’s Cathedral ( 045-521 229; Market Sq; admission by donation; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun May-Sep) looms over Kildare Sq. Look out for a fine stained-glass window inside that depicts the three main saints of Ireland: Patrick, Brigid and Colmcille. The church also contains the restored tomb of Walter Wellesley, Bishop of Kildare, which disappeared soon after his death in 1539 and was only found again in 1971. One of its carved figures has been variously interpreted as an acrobat or a sheila-na-gig.
The 10th-century round tower (admission €5) in the grounds is Ireland’s second highest at 32.9m, and one of the few that you can climb, provided the guardian is around. Its original conical roof has been replaced with an unusual Norman battlement. Near the tower is a wishing stone – put your arm through the hole and touch your shoulder and your wish will be granted. On the north side of the cathedral are the heavily restored foundations of an ancient fire temple (see the boxed text, Click here).
IRISH NATIONAL STUD & GARDENS
With highlights like the ‘Teasing Shed’, the Irish National Stud ( 045-521 617; www.irish-national-stud.ie; Tully; adult/child €10/5; 9.30am-6pm mid-Feb–Dec, last admission 5pm), about 3km south of town, is the big attraction in the locality. The stud was founded by Colonel Hall Walker (of Johnnie Walker whiskey fame) in 1900. He was remarkably successful with his horses, but his eccentric breeding technique relied heavily on astrology: the fate of a foal was decided by its horoscope and the roofs of the stallion boxes opened on auspicious occasions to reveal the heavens and duly influence the horses’ fortunes. Today the immaculately kept centre is owned and managed by the Irish government. It breeds high-quality stallions to mate with mares from all over the world.
There are guided tours (many of the guides have a real palaver) of the stud every hour on the hour, with access to the intensive-care unit for newborn foals. If you visit between February and June, you might even see a foal being born. Alternatively, the foaling unit shows a 10-minute video with all the action. You can wander the stalls and go eye-to-eye with famous stallions. Given that most are now geldings, they probably have dim memories of their time in the aforementioned Teasing Shed, the place where stallions are stimulated for mating, while dozens look on. The cost: tens of thousands of euros for a top horse.
After the thrill of seeing such prized stallions up close, the revamped Irish Horse Museum is quite disappointing; its celebration of championship horses and the history of horse racing is one step above what you’d expect to see from a really good school project.
Also disappointing are the much-vaunted Japanese Gardens (part of the complex), considered to be the best of their kind in Europe – which doesn’t say much for other contenders. Created between 1906 and 1910, they trace the journey from birth to death through 20 landmarks, including the Tunnel of Ignorance, the Hill of Ambition and the Chair of Old Age. When in bloom the flowers are beautiful, but the gardens are too small and bitty to really impress.
St Fiachra’s Garden is another bucolic feature, with a mixture of bog oak, gushing water, replica monastic cells and an underground crystal garden of dubious distinction. Both gardens are great for a relaxing stroll, though.
The large visitor centre houses the obligatory cafe, shop and children’s play area. A tour of the stud and gardens takes about two hours.
Lying outside the site, behind the museum, are the ruins of a 12th-century Black Abbey; and just off the road back to Kildare is St Brigid’s Well, where five stones represent different aspects of Brigid’s life.
* * *
CHRISTY MOORE: A NEW TRADITION FOR TRADITIONAL MUSIC
A native of Newbridge, County Kildare, Christy Moore is one of Ireland’s best-known, and certainly best-loved, traditional singers.