Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [142]
Brigid is remembered by a simple reed cross first woven by her to explain the redemption to a dying chief. The cross, said to protect and bless a household, is still found in many rural homes. She is also the patron of travellers, chicken farms and seamen, among others.
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Eating
The Whitewater Farmers Market ( 10am-4pm Wed & Sat) is held in the Whitewater Shopping Centre twice a week and has a wide range of local produce, including cheese, organic fruit and veg, organic meats and local crafts.
L’Officina by Dunne & Crescenzi ( 045-535 850; Kildare Retail Village; meals €4-8; 10am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 8pm Thu, to 10pm Sat, 10.30am-6pm Sun) The Dublin-based purveyors of gourmet Italian titbits have spread their wings and landed in the anodyne arms of the relatively new Kildare Retail Village. No matter: the salads, warm focaccias and desserts are as delicious and authentic as the ones in the capital (Click here).
Agape ( 045-533 711; Station Rd; meals €5-10; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Just off Market Sq, this trendy little cafe has a fine range of homemade food. There’s a full coffee bar and a menu of salads, soups, sandwiches and tasty hot specials.
Chapter 16 ( 045-522 232; Market Sq; mains €17-22; 6-10pm) Part of the Silken Thomas empire, this ambitious restaurant serves steaks, seafood and modern Irish fare in an attractive setting. The vast pub has a popular carvery lunch.
Getting There & Away
There is frequent Bus Éireann service between Dublin Busáras and Kildare (€10.30, 1¾ hours). Buses continue on to Limerick (€9.90, 2½ hours, four daily). Some Dublin buses also service the Stud.
The Dublin–Kildare train ( 01-836 6222) runs from Heuston train station and stops in Kildare (€13.80, 35 minutes, one to four per hour). This is a major junction and trains continue on to numerous places including Ballina, Galway, Limerick and Waterford.
Click here for information on local bus service provided by South Kildare Community Transport.
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ATHY
pop 7943
Strategically placed at the junction of the River Barrow and the Grand Canal, the Anglo-Norman settlement of Athy (Áth ĺ; a-thigh) shows little of its long history.
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DETOUR: BALLYMORE EUSTACE
The village of Ballymore Eustace is home to one of Ireland’s best modern pubs, the Ballymore Inn ( 045-864 585; www.ballymoreinn.com; mains €24-29). The richly tiled interior is warmed by small fireplaces, which flicker against the wicker and leather seating. The food ranges from pizza to amazing steaks. You can opt for a more formal experience in the dining room at lunch or dinner or settle back in the large pub, where pub food is served all day. Food is sourced from a stellar cast of local suppliers.
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Athy was founded in the 12th century and later became an important defence post. Many of the town’s older buildings remain, including the impressive White’s Castle, a tower built in 1417 to house the garrison. The castle is next to Crom-a-boo Bridge, named after what must be the world’s worst battle cry (meaning ‘Up Crom!’), hollered by the local Geraldine family.
The Tourist Office & Heritage Centre ( 059-863 3075; Emily Sq; admission Heritage Centre adult/child €3/2; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat & Sun May-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Apr) gives good walking recommendations. The heritage centre traces the history of Athy and has a fascinating exhibit on Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton (1874–1922), who was born in nearby Kilkea. On display is one of Shackleton’s sledges, acquired from New Zealand where he sold it to pay off his debts.
Activities
Athy is a popular place for pike, salmon and trout fishing. For equipment and information try Griffin Hawe Hardware ( 059-863 1221; www.griffinhawe.ie; 22 Duke St). There’s a wide range of fly rods and gear.
Sleeping & Eating
Carlton Abbey Hotel ( 059-863 0100; www.carltonabbeyhotel.com;