Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [151]
Sleeping & Eating
St Martin’s Rd is lined with B&Bs that cater for ferry-catchers with early breakfasts.
O’Leary’s Farmhouse B&B ( 053-913 3134; www.olearysfarm.com; Killilane, Kilrane; s €35-45, d €70-90; ) The O’Leary family have been rearing rare breeds of sheep and beef cattle at this working organic farm since the 1800s, and have renovated six airy, whitewashed guestrooms with honey-coloured hardwood floors and crisp linens. If you’re lucky enough to get an east-facing room (and fine weather), you’ll wake to unforgettable views of the sun rising over the Irish Sea. Breakfast includes vegan options like Quorn sausages, which you can work off on a 10-minute stroll to the beach. Turn off the N25 onto the road separating Kilrane’s pair of pubs, the Kilrane Inn and Culleton’s Pub, from where it’s a clearly signposted 3km.
Harbour View Hotel ( 053-916 1450; www.harbourviewhotel.ie; s €60-75, d €90-120; ) Service at this buttercup-yellow hotel melts away the Europort’s hulking presence, as do its sprightly, colourful rooms.
Churchtown House ( 053-913 2555; www.churchtownhouse.com; Tagoat; r €110-150; Mar-Nov; ) Set back from the R736 on the northern side of Tagoat, this 17th-century manor house has uncluttered, flowing guestrooms decorated in autumn hues. Evening meals are available on request.
Seasons Restaurant ( 053-916 1450; Harbour View Hotel; mains €9.50-21.50, dinner) Despite the nautical-style interior of the Harbour View Hotel’s restaurant, it serves an extensive range of Chinese fare (sizzling king prawns in black bean sauce, aromatic duck with steamed pancakes, vegetable chop suey), as well as Thai and European dishes. The wine list stretches to Argentina, Chile and South Africa.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Stena Line ( 053-913 3115; www.stenaline.ie) sails between Rosslare Harbour and Fishguard in Wales (adult foot passenger €30, bicycle €8, motorbike and driver €55 to €65, car and driver €85 to €189, two to four sailings per day). The crossing takes 3½ hours (two hours on Express ferry services, operating mid-May to mid-September).
Irish Ferries ( 053-913 3158; www.irishferries.com) sails to Pembroke in Wales (3¾ hours, twice daily). Single fares start at €28 for a foot passenger, €59 for a motorbike and driver, and €85 for a car and driver. Between late February and mid-December there are ferries to Cherbourg, France (19½ hours, up to three a week) and, between mid-May and September, less frequent sailings to Roscoff, France (18 hours). Single fares are from €56 for a foot passenger, €10 for a bicycle, €89 for a motorbike and driver, and €99 for a car and driver.
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BUS
Buses and trains depart from the Rosslare Europort station, located at the ferry terminal.
Bus Éireann ( 053-912 2522) has services to numerous Irish towns and cities, including Dublin (€16.70, three hours, at least nine daily) via Wexford (€4.50, 30 minutes), and Cork (€21.20, four hours, five daily Monday to Saturday, three Sunday) via Waterford (€14.90, 1½ hours).
CAR
Budget ( 053-913 3318) has an outlet in the ferry terminal.
TRAIN
Three trains daily in each direction operate on the Rosslare Europort–Rosslare Strand–Wexford–Dublin route (to Rosslare Strand €4.70, 10 minutes; to Wexford €4.70, 25 minutes; to Dublin Connolly Station €22.50, three hours). Trains on the Rosslare Europort–Limerick route stop in Waterford (€17, 1¼ hours, two daily Monday to Saturday).
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SOUTH OF ROSSLARE HARBOUR
About 9km south of Rosslare Harbour is Carnsore Point, home to the east coast’s first wind farm. Ireland’s first nuclear power stations would also be here had not cost (and protests) aborted the scheme.
The village of Carne has a few pretty, whitewashed, thatched cottages and a fine beach.
Locals and visitors alike pack the Lobster Pot ( 053-913 1110; Carne; lunch dishes around €12, dinner mains €21-35; restaurant dinner Tue-Sun, bar food noon-7.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Jan-early Feb) in summer (at which time it doesn’t take bookings),