Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [160]
Further out of town is St Peter’s Church, built from stones taken magpie-like from Ferns Cathedral and St Mary’s Abbey.
Ferns is an easy 12km drive northeast of Enniscorthy on the N11. Wexford Bus ( 053-914 2742; www.wexfordbus.com) operates seven services daily between Dublin airport and Wexford, which stop in Ferns.
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MT LEINSTER
The highest peak in the Blackstairs Mountains, Mt Leinster (796m) has magnificent views of Counties Waterford, Carlow, Kilkenny and Wicklow from the top. It’s home to some of Ireland’s best hang-gliding: contact the Irish Hang Gliding & Paragliding Association (www.ihpa.ie) for further information.
The car park at the foot of the mountain is signposted from Bunclody, 16km northwest of Ferns. From here, it’s a steep 1½-hour return walk. Click here if you’re coming from the western side of the mountains. Ordnance Survey’s Discovery map number 68 covers the Blackstairs Mountains region.
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COUNTY WATERFORD
pop 107,961
Diverse County Waterford harbours seaside resorts of all flavours along its sandy coastline; a warren of walking trails in the beautiful Nire Valley, concealed by the Comeragh and Monavullagh Mountains; and rejuvenated Waterford city, with its winding medieval lanes, open-air plazas soundtracked by buskers, and well-preserved Georgian architecture.
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WATERFORD CITY
pop 45,775
Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford (Port Láirge) is first and foremost a busy port. Some parts of the city still feel almost medieval, though, with narrow alleyways leading off larger streets. A great introduction to the area is Waterford’s state-of-the-art museum on the quayfront, which uses multimedia wizardry to convey the city’s extensive history.
History
In the 8th century Vikings settled at Port Láirge, which they renamed Vadrafjord and turned into a booming trading post. Their ferocity made Waterford the most powerful and feared settlement in the country. Local tribes paid a tribute known as Airgead Sróine (nose money), and defaulters had their noses cut off.
Anglo-Normans attacked the strategically situated town in 1170, defeating a combined Irish–Viking army and hurling 70 prominent citizens to their deaths off Baginbun Head. Strongbow (the Earl of Pembroke) then finished the takeover with 200 soldiers and 1000 archers, and married local chief Dermot MacMurrough’s daughter.
King John extended the original Viking city walls in 1210 and Waterford became Ireland’s most powerful city. In the 15th century it resisted the forces of two pretenders to the English Crown, Lambert Simnel and Perkin Warbeck, earning the motto Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia (Waterford city remains unconquered). The city defied Cromwell in 1649, but in 1650 his forces returned and Waterford surrendered. Although the town escaped the customary slaughter, Catholics were either exiled to the west or shipped as slaves to the Caribbean, and the population declined.
In recent years the city has received a facelift, with pedestrianised streets and public artworks.
Orientation
Waterford lies on the tidal reach of the River Suir, 16km from the coast. The main shopping street runs directly south from the Suir, beginning as Barronstrand St and passing through John Roberts Sq before becoming Broad St, Michael St and John St, which intersects with Parnell St; this then runs northeast back up to the quay-lined river, becoming The Mall on the way. Most sights and shops lie within this triangle.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Waterford Book Centre ( 051-873 823; 25 John Roberts Sq; 9am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 9am-9pm Fri, 1-5pm Sun) Three floors of books, foreign papers and magazines, and a cafe.
INTERNET ACCESS
Waterford e-Centre ( 051-878 448; 10 O’Connell St; per hr €4.50; 9.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-8pm Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
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THREE THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT WATERFORD
Ireland’s first frog was released here.
A shellicky boo-ky is a Waterford garden snail.