Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [168]
Chips and candyfloss are Tramore’s staple diet, but there are also a handful of gourmet options.
Vee Bistro ( 051-386 144; 1 Lower Main St; lunch mains €10.50-12, dinner mains €16.50-28; breakfast, lunch & dinner daily, hours may vary outside summer) In a port-wine-coloured building with tribal art and abstract canvases on the walls, the Vee’s French-accented dishes include confit of duck on Toulouse sausage and mussels in white wine with juniper berries. Live acoustic music plays on Saturday nights.
Esquire ( 051-381 324; Little Market St; mains €15-25; bar food noon-7pm, restaurant lunch & dinner) Located behind the post office, this gastro-pub with the feel of a smugglers’ haunt serves locally caught fish as well as traditional meaty dishes like duck, lamb and veal, and a veggie option. Hours fluctuate outside summer.
Pine Room ( 051-381 683; Turkey Rd; mains €16-28; 6-9.45pm) Tramore’s classiest restaurant is found inside a Georgian house with seascapes decorating the walls and a rustic feel. The emphasis is on meat, with some great chicken dishes on the menu as well as a vegetarian dish of the day.
A weekly farmers market ( 9am-1pm Sun) sets up outside the Coast Guard Station.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000) runs frequent buses daily between Waterford and Tramore (€2.50, 30 minutes). The main bus stop is opposite the Majestic Hotel.
Return to beginning of chapter
DUNGARVAN
pop 7813
With its pastel-shaded buildings ringing the picturesque bay where the River Colligan meets the sea, Dungarvan (Dún Garbhán) resembles Galway in miniature. St Garvan founded a monastery here in the 7th century, but most of the centre dates from the early 19th century when the Duke of Devonshire rebuilt the streets around Grattan Sq. Overlooking the bay are a dramatic ruined castle and an Augustinian abbey, as well as lively pubs. The Waterford county town, Dungarvan is also becoming a foodie haven, with outstanding restaurants, a state-of-the-art cookery school and the annual Waterford Festival of Food.
Orientation & Information
Dungarvan’s main shopping area is Grattan Sq, southwest of the river. Main St (also called O’Connell St) runs along the square’s southern edge and turns into Parnell or Lower Main St, which leads to the harbour.
The tourist office ( 058-41741; www.dungarvantourism.com; TF Meagher St; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 10am-5pm Sat May-Sep) is next to the post office.
Most banks are on Grattan Sq. Internet access is available at the library ( 058-41231; The Quay; internet free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, plus 6-8pm Wed & Thu) and at Sip & Surf ( 058-48658; Davitt’s Quay; internet per hr €5; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-5pm Sat, 2-6pm Sun), which also serves healthy, homemade dishes like pasta bakes (€4 to €7).
Sights & Activities
The colourful 18th-century Davitt’s Quay is an idyllic spot to grab a pint and watch the boats sail in.
A major renovation project is returning Dungarvan Castle ( 058-48144; admission free; 10am-6pm Jun-Sep) to its former Norman glory. Once inhabited by King John’s constable Thomas Fitz Anthony, the oldest part of the complex is the unusual 12th-century shell keep, built to defend the mouth of the river. The 18th-century British army barracks house a visitor centre with various exhibits. Admission is by guided tour.
Waterford County Museum ( 058-45960; www.waterfordcountymuseum.org; St Augustine St; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-5pm Sat Jun-Sep) is small but nicely presented. It covers maritime history (with relics from shipwrecks), Famine history, local personalities and various other titbits, all displayed in a former wine store.
The solitary St Augustine’s Church on the eastern side of the bridge overlooks Dungarvan Harbour. It was built in 1832 and once had a thatched roof. There are features incorporated from the original 13th-century abbey, including a well-preserved tower and nave. The abbey was destroyed during the Cromwellian occupation of the town, but the church remains in use today.
The Old Market House Arts Centre ( 058-48944; Lower Main St; admission