Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [183]
Today, tourism is Kilkenny’s main economic focus, but it’s also the regional centre for more traditional pursuits like agriculture – you’ll see farmers on tractors stoically dodging tour buses.
Orientation
At the junction of several major highways, Kilkenny straddles the River Nore, which flows through much of the county. St Canice’s Cathedral sits on the northern side of the River Bregagh (a tributary of the Nore) to the northwest of the town centre outside the town walls. Kilkenny’s main thoroughfare, Parliament and High Sts, runs southeast from the cathedral. Kilkenny Castle, on the banks of the River Nore, dominates the town’s southern side. John St is the main road on the east side of the River Nore and links up with Dublin Rd at MacDonagh train station with its vast new shopping mall.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Kilkenny Book Centre ( 056-776 2117; 10 High St) The largest bookshop in town, stocking plenty of Irish-interest fiction and nonfiction, periodicals and a big range of maps. There’s a good cafe upstairs.
EMERGENCY
Police station ( 056-22222; Dominic St)
INTERNET ACCESS
Mobile Connections ( 056-772 3000; 10 Rose Inn St; per hr €2.40; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Central and cheap.
LAUNDRY
Bretts Launderette ( 056-63200; Michael St; per small/large load €18/24; 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat)
MEDICAL SERVICES
St Luke’s Hospital ( 056-778 5000; Freshford Rd)
Sam McCauley Pharmacy ( 056-775 0122; 33 High St) The largest of High St’s many pharmacies.
MONEY
Ireland’s major banks have branches with ATMs on High St.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office ( 056-775 1500; Rose Inn St; www.discoverireland.ie; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9.15am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun) County Kilkenny’s only tourist office, stocking excellent guides and walking maps, set in Shee Alms House, built in local stone in 1582 by local benefactor Sir Richard Shee to provide help for the poor.
Sights
KILKENNY CASTLE
Rising above the Nore, Kilkenny Castle ( 056-772 1450; www.kilkennycastle.ie; adult/child €6/2.50; 9am-5.30pm Jun-Aug, 9.30am-5.30pm Apr-May & Sep, 9.30am-5pm Mar, 9.30am-4.30pm Oct-Feb) is one of Ireland’s most visited heritage sites. The first structure on this strategic site was a wooden tower built in 1172 by Richard de Clare, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Ireland better known as Strongbow. In 1192, Strongbow’s son-in-law, William Marshall, erected a stone castle with four towers, three of which survive. The castle was bought by the powerful Butler family in 1391, and their descendants continued to live there until 1935. Maintaining such a structure became a big financial strain and most of the furnishings were sold at auction. The castle was handed over to the city in 1967 for the princely sum of £50.
One glance tells you that the castle has been modified through the centuries. First of all it’s missing a wall – a key defensive deficiency. Second, there’s all those windows – perfect targets, say, for a catapult. Most of the changes visible today date from the 19th century when efforts were made to banish the gloom and bring in the cheer. By then the only real defensive worry was a peasant flinging a rotten potato.
Regular 40-minute guided tours focus on the Long Gallery, in the wing of the castle nearest the river. The gallery, which showcases stuffy portraits of the Butler family members over the centuries, is an impressive hall with high ceilings vividly painted with Celtic and Pre-Raphaelite motifs.
The castle basement is also home to the Butler Gallery ( 056-776 1106; www.butlergallery.com; admission free), one of the country’s most important art galleries outside Dublin. Small exhibitions featuring the work of contemporary artists are held throughout the year. Also in the basement, the castle kitchen houses a popular summertime cafe. You can head directly to either the Butler Gallery or the cafe without paying the tour admission price.
About 20 hectares of parkland (admission free; daylight hr) extend to the southeast, with a Celtic cross-shaped rose garden, a fountain to the northern end