Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [187]
Zuni ( 056-772 3999; www.zuni.ie; 26 Patrick St; r €99-150; ) This former playhouse now houses one of the city’s chicest restaurants (opposite) and 13 townhouse-style rooms. Rooms are decked out with contemporary art, angular furniture and soft-glowing lamps.
TOP END
Langton House Hotel ( 056-776 5133; www.langtons.ie; 67 John St; s €75-125, d €130-200; ) In the same family since the 1930s, but constantly evolving, this Kilkenny icon has some 30 rooms of varying styles – from clubby, leather-upholstered affairs to futuristic ones with 16-jet, computerised showers complete with double bench-seats, in-shower lighting and an in-shower radio to drown out your singing. There’s also a fine restaurant (Edward Langton’s; opposite) and a sophisticated nightclub (Langton Club;).
Kilkenny River Court ( 056-772 3388; www.kilrivercourt.com; John St; r €95-200; ) When not unwinding in your lavishly appointed room, you can dine at the respected restaurant, swim laps in the award-winning health club’s sunlit indoor pool, or sip a cocktail on the cobblestone terrace of the wraparound bar overlooking the bridge and castle. Staff are consistently helpful.
Butler House ( 056-772 2828; www.butler.ie; 16 Patrick St; s €120-155, d €170-225; ) You can’t stay in Kilkenny Castle, but this historic mansion is surely the next best thing. Once the home of the earls of Ormonde, who built the castle, these days it houses a boutique hotel with aristocratic trappings including sweeping staircases, marble fireplaces, an art collection and impeccably trimmed gardens (Click here). The 13 generously sized rooms are individually decorated including brand-new bathrooms.
Eating
Kilkenny has some 40 restaurants – the hard part is choosing.
CAFES
Two Dames ( 085 175 5005; 80 John St; dishes €3-7; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat) Organic porridge, granola with organic yoghurt and ‘CYO’ (create your own) sandwiches that might feature brie, cranberry, grape and crispy bacon are just a few of the reasons locals squeeze into this hole-in-the-wall cafe.
Chez Pierre ( 056-776 4655; 17 Parliament St; daytime dishes €4.50-13, dinner mains €20; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, plus dinner Thu-Sat) This sunny-sweet French spot does great tartines (open-faced sandwiches), soups and sweets plus blackboard specials.
Cafe Sol ( 056-776 4987; William St; lunch mains €9-15, dinner mains €17-29; 11.30am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) Leisurely lunches stretch until 5pm at this cafe–restaurant. Local produce includes Kilkenny beef and Carlow free-range chicken, but vegetarians aren’t an afterthought, with choices like oven-baked goat’s cheese with mango and plum chutney, and pecan, vegetable and hazelnut roast.
Kilkenny Design Centre Cafe ( 056-772 2118; Castle Yard; dishes €10-13; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 11am-7pm Sun Apr-Dec) Upstairs from the arty shops, this equally arty, organic-oriented cafe is one of the best places in town for home-baked breads and scones, salads such as warm chicken with smoked bacon and feta, and sumptuous desserts.
RESTAURANTS
Zuni ( 056-772 3999; www.zuni.ie; 26 Patrick St; lunch mains €7-13, dinner mains €21-27; lunch & dinner) Dark leathers contrasting with lighter tables and walls at this one-time theatre provide a stylised backdrop for chef Maria Rafferty’s show-stopping cooking in the open kitchen. Irish produce takes on pan-European flavours in dishes like wild Wicklow venison with potato gratin.
Fléva ( 056-777 0021; 84 High St; lunch mains €9.50-12.50, dinner mains €18.50-27; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) There’s a postmodern sense of experimentation at this art-filled restaurant. Locally sourced produce is complemented by flavoursome accompaniments like wholegrain mustard, minted peas and celeriac purée.
Rinuccini ( 056-776 1575; 1 The Parade; lunch mains €10-20, dinner mains €19-30; lunch & dinner) Follow a short flight of steps down to a candlelit basement to bliss out on Antonio Cavaliere’s classical Italian cuisine, including his sublime Spaghetti al Astice – lobster tossed with