Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [192]
STONYFORD
On the N10, a few kilometres northwest of the abbey and Thomastown, is the small village of Stonyford. The local highlight, the nationally renowned Jerpoint Glass Studio ( 056-24350; www.jerpointglass.com; studio 10am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, shop 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun), is housed in an old stone-walled farm building where you can watch workers craft molten glass into exquisite artistic and practical items.
KILFANE
The village of Kilfane, 3km north of Thomastown on the N9, has a small, ruined 13th-century church and Norman tower, 50m off the road and signposted. The church has a remarkable stone carving of Thomas de Cantwell called the Cantwell Fada or Long Cantwell. It depicts a tall, thin knight in detailed chain-mail armour brandishing a shield decorated with the Cantwell coat of arms.
Kilfane Glen & Waterfall ( 056-24558; 11am-6pm Jul & Aug only) is a pretty spot with wooded paths winding through its wild 6-hectare gardens, which date from the 1790s. An elaborately decorated thatched cottage is worth hiking to. Kilfane Glen is 2km north of town along the N9.
GOWRAN
Some 14km northeast of Thomastown on the N9 (and 14km east of Kilkenny), the small village of Gowran is notable for the Heritage Service–run St Mary’s Church ( 056-772 6894; www.heritageireland.ie; admission free; 9.30am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep), a 13th-century house of worship for clerics living in a loose community. Much modified through the years, it has a 19th-century church grafted onto one side.
Brave souls can handle some of the slithering creatures at the indoor (ie rainy-day friendly) Reptile Village ( 056-772 6757; www.reptilevillage.net; The Demesne, Gowran; adult/child/family €8.90/5.70/26; 10am-6pm); the less brave can peer at them through glass.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are bus services operated by Kilbride Coaches ( 051-423 633) and JJ Kavanagh & Sons ( 056-883 1106; www.jjkavanagh.ie), however, the train offers the most frequent public transport to/from Thomastown. Five trains daily (four on Sunday) stop on the Dublin–Waterford route via Kilkenny (€7, 12 minutes). The station is 1km west of town.
Inistioge
pop 263
The little village of Inistioge (in-ish-teeg) is a picture. Its 18th-century, 10-arch stone bridge spans the River Nore and vintage shops face its tranquil square. Somewhere so inviting could hardly hope to escape the attention of movie-location scouts: Inistioge’s film credits include Widow’s Peak (1993), Circle of Friends (1994) and Where the Sun is King (1996). There are picnic tables on the river.
With a scenic stretch of the South Leinster Way coursing through town, this is a good base for exploring the region. The R700 from Thomastown makes for a lovely scenic drive through the river valley. Better yet, try the hiking trails that follow the river and side trails leading up into the hills.
Approximately 3km south, on Mt Alto, is the heavily forested Woodstock Gardens ( 056-779 4000; parking €4; 9am-8pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar), a beauty of a park with expansive gardens, picnic areas and trails. The panorama of the valley and village below is spectacular. Coming from town, follow the signs for Woodstock Estate and enter the large gates (despite appearances, it’s a public road) then continue along the road for about 2km until you reach the car park.
SLEEPING & EATING
Woodstock Arms ( 056-775 8440; www.woodstockarms.com; Inistioge; s/d/tr €45/75/96) This friendly pub has tables outside overlooking the square and seven simple rooms that are freshly painted and squeaky clean. The three triples are particularly spacious. Breakfast is served in a pretty little room out back with wooden tables and blue-and-white china.
Circle of Friends ( 056-775 8800; dishes €4.50-16; at least noon-6pm winter, to 9pm summer, may close one day per week) Also with tables overlooking the square, this cheerful apple-green