Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [194]
During the day, healthy wraps, soups, salads and organic teas are available at Coffee on High ( 059-972 5725; High St; dishes €3.80-8; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat).
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
One of Graiguenamanagh’s hidden treasures is its pair of unchanged-in-generations old pubs. Mick Doyle’s and Mick Ryan’s, both on Abbey St, still sell everything from fishing tackle to pitch forks to dusty tins of baked beans along with pints of stout. The former still has its sheep-dipping sign; the latter has an equally untouched timber snug.
On the corner of the Quay and Abbey Street, another cosy, old-time pub, Murray’s, is the life and soul of the village during its cracking Sunday evening trad sessions; listen out for songs featuring local landmarks.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Graiguenamanagh is 23km southeast of Kilkenny city on the R703. Kilbride Coaches ( 051-423 633) runs two buses Monday to Saturday to/from Kilkenny.
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NORTHERN KILKENNY
The rolling green hills of northern County Kilkenny are idyllic for leisurely drives along the back roads with the makings of a picnic stowed in the boot. There’s not a whole lot going on in this part of the county; it’s best enjoyed by simply taking in the scenery and discovering peaceful little villages.
Castlecomer & Around
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Castlecomer is on the gentle River Dinin, some 18km north of Kilkenny. The town became a centre for anthracite mining after the fuel was discovered nearby in 1636; the mines closed for good in the mid-1960s. The anthracite, a very hard form of coal, was widely regarded as being Europe’s best, containing very little sulphur and producing almost no smoke.
Coal-mining exhibits are set among lush woodlands at the new Castlecomer Discovery Park ( 056-444 0707; www.discoverypark.ie; Estate Yard; adult/child €8/5; 9.30am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Oct & Mar-Apr, 10.30am-4.30pm Nov-Feb), including some rare fossils predating dinosaurs, found here. Anglers can hook trout at the adjacent Rainbow Trout Lakes (per 4 hr €20; 10am-dusk); you’re allowed to keep two fish and must release the rest.
About 10km southwest of Castlecomer is Swifte’s Heath, home to Jonathan Swift during his school years in Kilkenny. The ‘e’ was evidently dropped from the name before the satirist gained notoriety as the author of Gulliver’s Travels and A Modest Proposal.
Foulksrath Castle Hostel ( 056-67674; www.anoige.ie; Ballyragget; dm incl linen €19; reception 5-10pm; ) All the storybooks you read as a kid come to life at this reputedly haunted castle. Dating from 1320 and modified in the 16th century, it’s the oldest building in the world to operate as a hostel. A heart-stoppingly steep, worn-smooth spiral stone staircase leads to 42 beds in rustic dorms inside the tower, while a secret passageway leads to the rooftop with views over the woods. Modern concessions include new bathrooms and a stainless-steel kitchen; after cooking, hostellers usually dine by candlelight in the stone banquet hall. Stock up on supplies beforehand as there are no shops nearby and breakfast isn’t included.
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WALKS: COUNTIES CARLOW & KILKENNY
The South Leinster Way slices through the hilly southern part of County Kilkenny, from Graiguenamanagh through Inistioge, down to Mullinavat and westward to Piltown. By far the prettiest part, a stretch of some 13km, begins on the River Barrow. It links Graiguenamanagh and Inistioge, two charming villages with amenities for travellers. In either village you can reward yourself with a top-notch meal.
Alternatively,