Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [211]
Dinky Fox’s Lane Folk Museum ( 024-20170, 024-291 145; www.tyntescastle.com/fox; North Cross Lane; adult/child €4/2; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat Jul-Aug) contains more than 600 household gadgets, dating from 1850 to 1950, and a Victorian kitchen.
Walking Tour
Youghal’s history is best understood through its landmarks. Heading through town from south to north, this tour details the more prominent sights.
The curious Clock Gate was built in 1777, and served as a clock tower and jail concurrently; several prisoners taken in the 1798 Rising were hanged from its windows.
The beautifully proportioned brick Red House, on North Main St, was designed in 1706 by the Dutch architect Leuventhen, and features some Dutch Renaissance details. Main St has an interesting curve that follows the original shore; many of the shopfronts are from the 19th century. A few doors further up the street are six almshouses built by Englishman Richard Boyle, who bought Raleigh’s Irish estates and became the first Earl of Cork in 1616 in recognition of his work in creating ‘a very excellent colony’. The almshouses were given to ex-soldiers, along with an annual pension of £5.
Across the road is the 15th-century tower house Tynte’s Castle (www.tyntescastle.com), which originally had a defensive riverfront position. When the River Blackwater silted up and changed course in the 17th and 18th centuries, the castle was left high and dry. It’s currently under renovation.
Built in 1220, St Mary’s Collegiate Church incorporates elements of an earlier Danish church dating back to the 11th century. Inside there’s a monument to Richard Boyle, portrayed with his wife and 16 kids. The Earl of Desmond and his troops, rebelling against English rule, demolished the chancel roof in the 16th century; Cromwell is believed to have given a funerary speech inside for a fallen general in 1650. The churchyard is bounded by a fine stretch of the 13th-century town wall and one of the remaining turrets.
Beside the church, Myrtle Grove is the former home of Sir Walter Raleigh. Local tradition claims that he smoked the first cigarette and planted the first potatoes here, but historians (the spoilsports) tend to disagree. His gardens, on the other side of St Mary’s, have recently been restored and are open to the public.
Sleeping
Clonvilla Caravan & Camping Park ( 024-98288; clonvilla@hotmail.com; Clonpriest; campsites from €20; Mar-Oct) Facilities are basic at this small site 4km out of town, but it’s quiet enough.
Roseville ( 024-92571; www.rosevillebb.com; New Catherine St; r €50-70) In the heart of Youghal, deep-red Roseville, with its own walled garden, has the mood of a country house. The rooms have big comfy beds and are decorated in restful shades of beige. The garden is a fine place for lounging on a summer evening.
Avonmore House ( 024-92617; www.avonmoreyoughal.com; South Abbey; s/d from €50/70) This grand Georgian house near the clock tower was built in 1752 on the site of a Franciscan abbey destroyed by Cromwellian troops. Avonmore belonged to the earls of Cork before passing into private hands in 1826. Rooms are basic and multicoloured.
Aherne’s ( 024-92424; www.ahernes.net; 163 North Main St; s/d from €130/150; ) The 12 rooms above the popular restaurant (see right) are well appointed, with broadband internet; larger ones have small balconies, where you can get a whiff of the sea air.
Eating
You’ll find a few cafes and pubs in the centre near the Clock Gate.
Aherne’s Seafood Bar & Restaurant ( 024-92424; 163 North Main St; bar food €10-40, dinner €24-40; bar food noon-10pm, dinner 6.30-9.30pm) Three generations of the same family have run Aherne’s, an award-winning restaurant, justifiably famous for its terrific menu. Besides the restaurant there is a stylish, cosy bar and a much larger one popular with locals. The pub food is excellent.
Drinking
For an end-of-day pint and traditional live music, nowhere beats Treacy’s (The Nook; 20 North Main St),