Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [234]
The rough, rocky Caha Mountains make for good hill walking. There are plenty of gentler strolls, too, in mature oak woodlands and through the coastal Blue Pool Amenity Area, where seals, perched on submerged rocks, appear to levitate on the water.
In the second half of the 19th century, Glengarriff became a popular retreat for prosperous Victorians, who sailed from England, took the train to Bantry, then chugged over to the village in a paddle steamer. By 1850 the road to Kenmare had been blasted through the mountains and the link with Killarney was established. Today Glengarriff lies on the main Cork to Killarney road (N71).
Information
There’s a Fáilte Ireland tourist office ( 027-63084; Main St; 9.30am-1pm & 2-5pm Jun-Aug) and a privately run tourist office ( 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug) beside the Blue Pool Ferry ticket booth. See www.glengarriff.ie for more local info.
Sights
If you’re becalmed in town, wander down past the Blue Ferry pier and enjoy good nature walks along the coast. Signs with maps show you your options. Try to spot a seal.
GARINISH (ILNACULLIN) ISLAND
The magical Italianate garden ( 027-63040; adult/senior & child €4/2.50; 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat & 11am-6.30pm Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat & 11am-6.30pm Sun Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat & 1-5pm Sun Mar & Oct, last admission 1hr before closing) on Garinish Island is the top sight in Glengarriff. Subtropical plants flourish in the rich soil and warm climate. The camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons especially provide a seasonal blaze of colour. There are good views from a Grecian temple at the end of a cypress avenue, and a spectacular panorama from the top of the 19th-century Martello tower, built to watch out for a possible Napoleonic invasion.
This little miracle of a place was created in the early 20th century, when the island’s owner, Annan Bryce, commissioned the English architect Harold Peto to design him a garden on the then-barren outcrop.
Garinish Island is reached by taking a 10-minute boat trip past islands and colonies of basking seals. The ferry companies leave every 20 to 30 minutes when the garden is open. The return boat fare (adult €10 to €12, child €6) doesn’t include entry to the gardens.
Blue Pool Ferry ( 027-63333) From a little cove near the centre of the village.
Harbour Queen Ferries ( 027-63116, 087 234 5861; www.harbourqueenferry.com) From the pier opposite the Eccles Hotel.
BAMBOO PARK
Bamboo Park ( 027-63570; www.bamboo-park.com; adult/child €5/free; 9am-7pm) flourishes thanks to Glengarriff’s mild, frost-free climate. It has 12 hectares of exotic plants, including palm trees and tree ferns, and coastal woodland walks.
GLENGARRIFF WOODS NATURE RESERVE
The 300-hectare ancient woodland lining Glengarriff’s glacial valley was owned by the White family of Bantry House in the 18th century. The thick tree cover maintains humid conditions that allow ferns and mosses to flourish.
The woodlands and bogs are also home to Ireland’s only arboreal ant and the rare and protected Kerry slug. If you’re lucky (have camera ready so you can share your slug with friends and family), you’ll see these spotty cream-coloured gastropods on the lichen carpet munching after rainfall.
There are four marked trails through the reserve, separately covering woodland, mountain, river and meadow, and you can combine them to form one big walk (8.5km, three to four hours).
To get to the woods, leave Glengarriff on the N71 towards Kenmare. The entrance is about 1km along on the west.
Sleeping
Dowlings Caravan & Camping Park ( /fax 027-63154; Castletownbere Rd; campsites from €12; Easter-Oct) This well-set-up park, 4km west of Glengarriff on the road to Castletownbere, enjoys a woodland setting. Amenities include a games room and a licensed bar staging traditional music most nights from June to August.
Murphy’s Village Hostel ( 027-63555; Main St; dm/d €15/50; Jun-Sep) Right at the heart of Glengarriff, Murphy’s is a quiet little