Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [237]
There are inviting pubs and B&Bs in Allihies (Na hAilichí), and a small tourist information kiosk, beside the church, opens in summer.
The Allihies Village Hostel ( 027-73107; www.allihieshostel.net; dm/d from €18/50), run by father-and-daughter team Michael and Sarah, is a model hostel. Gleaming from top to bottom, it has smart wood-floored dorms and public areas, a courtyard and a barbecue area. Michael is a mine of information on the area and can advise on local walks and pony trekking.
Also in town, Sea View B&B ( 027-73004; www.seaviewallihies.com; s/d €45/75) has 10 cosy rooms in a tidy yellow building. Many have views north over the waters and some are quite large. The spread at breakfast will help fuel your rambles.
Among the several pubs, O’Neil’s ( 027-73008; meals €7-15; kitchen noon-9pm) is the most appealing, with a tidy red and blue facade and some polished wooden benches and picnic tables out front for enjoying the views. Pub food intermingles with fresh local seafood.
Eyeries to Lauragh
Heading north and east from Allihies, the beautiful coastal road (R575), with hedges of fuchsias and rhododendrons, twists and turns for about 12km to Eyeries. This cluster of brightly coloured houses overlooking Coulagh Bay is often used as a film set. The town is also home to Milleens cheese ( 027-74079; www.milleenscheese.com), from pioneering producer Veronica Steele. She welcomes visitors to her farm; phone ahead.
From Eyeries, forsake the R571 for the even smaller coast roads (lanes really) to the north and east. This is the Beara at its most spectacular – and intimate. Tiny coves are like pearls in a sea of rocks, the views of the Ring of Kerry to the north sublime.
Rejoin the R571 at the crossroads of Ardgroom (Ard Dhór). As you head east towards Lauragh, look for signs pointing to the Ardgroom stone circle, an unusual Bronze Age monument with nine tall, thin uprights. There’s muddy parking at the end of a 500m-long narrow approach lane. The circle is visible about 200m away and a path leads to it across bogland. A crude sign says simply ‘money’ and a US dollar under a rock gives a hint.
Lauragh (Laith Reach), situated northeast of Ardgroom, is in County Kerry. It’s home to the Derreen Gardens ( 064-83103; adult/child €6/3; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct), planted by the fifth Lord Lansdowne around the turn of the 20th century. Mossy paths weave through an abundance of interesting plants, including spectacular New Zealand tree ferns and red cedars, and you may see seals on the shore.
From Lauragh, a serpentine road travels 11km south across the other-worldly Healy Pass and down to Adrigole, offering spectacular views of the rocky inland scenery. About 1km west of Lauragh, along the R571, is a road to Glanmore Lake, with the remains of an old hermitage on a tiny island in the middle. There are walking opportunities in the area, but gaining access can be problematic: ask locally for advice.
SLEEPING & EATING
The small road just west of Lauragh off the R575 leads into a lovely valley along Glanmore Lake.
Glanmore Lake Hostel ( 064-83181; www.anoige.ie; Glanmore Lake; dm adult/child from €17/14; end-May–end-Sep) A rural atmosphere and an engaging location at the heart of Glanmore make this remote An Óige hostel an appealing place. It’s in Glanmore’s old boarding school, 5km from the R571.
Josie’s Lakeview House ( 064-83155; Glanmore Lake; lunch €6-15, dinner mains €15-25) Captivating lake views accompany your food. Josie’s sits on a hill overlooking Glanmore Lake. Choose from salads and sandwiches for lunch, cakes at tea or heartier rack of lamb and local seafood specials at night. Josie’s is 4km from the R571; follow the signs.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The bus service in this area is limited. Contact Bus Éireann ( 021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) for