Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [242]
Murphy’s of Killarney ( 064-663 1294; www.murphysofkillarney.com; College St; r €70-150) Recently refurbished, Murphy’s is owned by a real Murphy who takes real pride in his 20 stylish rooms in the heart of town. If it’s pissing down you won’t have to leave as the restaurant, bar and pub all win praise.
Top End
Arbutus Hotel ( 064-663 1037; www.arbutuskillarney.com; College St; s/d from €80/150; Feb-Nov; ) The 34 bedrooms range from those with 1920s Celtic deco furniture to more modern rooms with black-and-white bathrooms and the bath in a sweeping alcove. Trad sessions fire up in Buckley’s Bar on many nights and Sunday lunchtimes.
Killarney Plaza Hotel ( 064-662 1111; www.killarneyplaza.com; Kenmare Pl; r €120-250; ) Dominating the view of the south end of Main St, this large, 198-room hotel is built in a brilliant white traditional style. Rooms come in several grades but all have a restrained style with just a touch of élan. Public facilities are in keeping with its class; besides the beautifully tiled indoor pool, there’s a sauna, steam room and spa.
Malton ( 064-663 8000; www.themalton.com; r €120-300; ) So commanding it doesn’t need an address, the Malton is pillared, ivy-covered and a throwback to Victorian elegance – at least from the outside. The inside has been thoroughly refurbished, much to the disdain of Colonel Blimp types, though most others find the stylish surrounds a breath of fresh air. Of the 172 rooms, those in the 1852 wing are best, retaining their period opulence.
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EATING
Killarney’s eating options at first seem geared to the visiting mobs (complete with early dining times and specials for groups checking out early in the am) but look a little closer ands you’ll find loads of interesting options popular with locals.
Budget
Murphy’s Ice Cream ( 064-915 2644; Main St; 11am-9pm) For superlative homemade ice cream.
Dunne’s Stores ( 064-6635888; New St) Has a well-stocked supermarket with a lovely self-serve salad and pasta counter bar.
Jam ( 064-663 1441; Old Market Lane; snacks & meals €2-8; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) This charmer of a cafe is a local hideout. Duck down an alley for a changing menu of hot meals, deli items, and coffee and cake. It’s all made with locally sourced produce and there’s a few tables under an awning out front.
Vanilla Pod ( 064-662 6559; Old Market Lane; snacks & meals €2-12; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Gavin Gleeson’s gem of a little cafe has a range of locally sourced fresh and organic foods. The menu changes daily, but there are build-your-own sandwiches, salads and more elaborate fare like roasted fish. Bakery items can be enjoyed as a treat all day, especially at the tables out front.
Sceale Eile ( 064-663 5066; 73 High St; mains €6-12; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) This bakery–cafe, with Irish literary memorabilia decorating the walls upstairs, energises Killarney’s workforce with baguettes, bagels, burgers, lasagne and roasts. The big BLT is famous locally; tarts abound.
Midrange
Treyvaud’s ( 064-663 3062; 62 High St; lunch mains €8-15, dinner mains €15-30; noon-10pm) Michael Treyvaud’s modish restaurant has a strong reputation for subtle dishes that merge trad Irish with seductive European influences. The seafood chowder at lunch is a seductive repast; dinner mains include the best of local lamb and a winsome bacon and cabbage plate.
Mac’s of Main Street ( 064-663 5213; Main St; mains €8-20; 10.30am-10pm) With possibly the latest serving hours of a restaurant in Killarney, Mac’s is a big, buzzy, casual place that sees loads of traffic through the day. The menu isn’t long but features good renditions of standards like shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and burgers. Pints are poured, there’s wine by the glass, and big booths to sit in; many can’t resist the special sundaes.
Chapter 40 ( 064-667 1833; New St; mains €11-30; 5-10pm Mon-Sat) Popular with Killarney