Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [254]
Boats leave around 10am and return at 3pm, and cost about €45 per person. You can depart from Portmagee, Knightstown, Caherciveen, Ballinskelligs or Derrynane. The boat owners try to restrict you to two hours on the island, which is the bare minimum, on a good day, to see the monastery, look at the birds and have a picnic. The crossing takes about 1½ hours from Portmagee, one hour from Ballinskelligs and 1¾ hours from Derrynane.
Local pubs and B&Bs will point you in the direction of operators, including:
Casey’s ( 066-947 2437; www.skelligislands.com; Portmagee)
Dan & Donal McCrohan ( 066-947 6142; Valentia Island)
John O’Shea ( 087 689 8431; johnoshea33@hotmail.com; Caherdaniel)
Sea Quest ( 066-947 6214; www.skelligsrock.com; Valentia Island, Reenard Point)
If you just want to see the islands up close and avoid actually having to clamber out of the boat, the Skellig Experience runs two-hour cruises daily in summer (adult/child €28/15), usually about 3pm.
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SKELLIG RING
This 18km detour from the Ring of Kerry (N70) links Portmagee and Waterville via a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area centred on Ballinskelligs (Baile an Sceilg). Ballinskelligs’ name translates as ‘town of the crag’, which may elicit sniggers from fans of Father Ted and his Craggy Island pals (see the boxed text, Click here). The area is as wild and beautiful as anything on Ted’s fictional isle, with the ragged outline of Skellig Michael never far from view.
Besides the desolate scenery, the Skellig Ring’s narrow roads are tour-bus free.
Sights
SIOPA CHILL RIALAIG
On the site of a village abandoned during the Famine, this contemporary art gallery ( 066-947 9297; cillrialaig@easatclear.ie; Dun Geagan; 10am-7pm Jul-Aug, 11am-5pm rest of year) is packed with work by local artists and talent from around Ireland and the world. It is the shop window of the Cill Rialaig Project, which provides a retreat for creative people who pay for their stay with art.
The gallery is by the R566 at the northeastern end of Ballinskelligs. You’ll spot its circular, thatched roofs and the sculpture that resembles a hallucinogenic mushroom. There is a cafe inside.
BALLINSKELLIGS PRIORY & BAY
The sea and salty air are eating away at the atmospheric ruins of this medieval priory, a monastic settlement that was probably built by the Skellig Michaels monks after they fled their isolated outpost in the 12th century. To reach it, follow the sign to the pier at the western end of town and you will see it on the left.
Another sign points to the fine little Blue Flag beach. At the western end of the beach are the last remnants of the 16th-century castle stronghold of the McCarthys, built on the isthmus as a defence against pirates.
Activities
St Finian’s Bay is good for surfing. Ballinskelligs Watersports ( 086 389 4849; www.skelligsurf.com) hires out surfboards, kayaks and windsurfers, and gives lessons (per two hours €35 to €45).
Sleeping & Eating
Skellig Hostel ( 066-947 9942; www.skellighostel.com; Ballinskelligs; dm/d €15/46-52) This modern building exudes all the character of an auditor at work but inside the pink bedding is worthy of Barbie’s dream house. The common spaces are comfortable and the elevated location provides good sea views.
Ballinskelligs Inn ( 066-947 9106; www.ballinskelligsinn.com; s/d from €50) A classic rural establishment where the conversation is in Gaeilge. An addition has brought the room count to 14, all with various iconic views. The simple restaurant does simple meals (€10 to €20) or you can hit the small shop for crisps. They will organise diving and activities for you.
Café Coistrá ( 066-947 9323; snacks €1-3; 9am-6pm) At the car park for Ballinskelligs strand, this beach-hut cafe and craft shop is a great place for a coffee. Locals flock here for their morning jolt. Photos seem to go back to Famine times.
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WATERVILLE
pop 550
Waterville, a line of colourful houses strung on the N72 between