Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [258]
Kenmare Lodge ( 064-664 0662; www.kenmarehostel.com; 27 Main St; dm/d from €17/50; ) Perfectly located, this pleasant, modern hostel has a patio, laundry facilities and a roomy kitchen and dining area.
MIDRANGE
Greenville B&B ( 064-664 1769; Killowen Rd; s/d from €45/70) Just 100m east of Main St, this modern house has eye-catching gardens and ancient stone walls, as well as four comfy bedrooms with private bathrooms. Breakfasts are hearty and the bucolic scene is enhanced by views of the golf course.
Whispering Pines ( 064-664 1194; wpines@eircom.net; s/d from €45/80; Easter-Nov) In a quiet location near the pier, with four immaculate rooms and a cheerful welcome. Town is a short walk and the location out here near the brine is fantastic.
Virginia’s Guesthouse ( 064-664 1021; www.virginias-kenmare.com; Henry St; r from €50/80; ) You can’t get more central than this award-winning B&B, whose creative breakfasts celebrate organic local produce (rhubarb and blueberries in season, for example). Its eight excellent rooms are perfectly comfortable but not posh. Excellent value.
Hawthorn House ( 064-664 1035; www.hawthornhousekenmare.com; Shelbourne St; s/d from €55/90; ) This stylish house has seven spacious rooms, including a majestic family room, all named after local towns and decked out in light pine. It is set back from busy Shelbourne St behind a low wall.
Rose Cottage ( 064-664 1330; The Square; d €70-80) This countrified B&B is almost a cliché and it’s even right in the centre. The rooms are timeless as is the experience (although they are sold as doubles only). The Poor Clare nuns stayed here when they arrived in Kenmare, then had to leave just as the apples were ripening in the orchard.
D’Arcy’s ( 064-664 1589; www.darcys.ie, r from €80) Antiques and simple decor mingle in the seven rooms above one of Kenmare’s best restaurants (see opposite). Besides enjoying a dinner discount, guests can partake in an included full breakfast with some lovely baked goods.
TOP END
Sheen Falls Lodge ( 064-664 1600; www.sheenfallslodge.ie; r from €350; Feb-Dec; ) The Marquis of Landsdowne’s former summer residence still feels like an aristocrats’ playground. The lodge is an elegant and luxurious retreat with a spa and 66 rooms with DVD players and Italian marble bathrooms. With views of the falls and across Kenmare Bay to Carrantuohil, it’s a beautiful escape. Amenities are many (clay-pigeon shooting, anyone?).
Eating
Choices, whether snacks, picnic, lunch or dinner, are many – and good. For self-catering options, the farmers market ( 10am-4pm Wed) is on the Square, the SuperValu ( 064-664 1307; Main St) supermarket has a wide selection, and Truffle Pig ( 064-664 2953; The Square; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) offers fine meats, cheeses and other deli items from the region.
BUDGET
Jam 064-664 1591; Henry St; meals & snacks €2-9; 8am-5pm) Funky, comfy Jam offers organic baked goods, picnic joy and elaborate coffees. Veggies can go silly for the lentil and nut loaf.
Purple Heather Bistro ( 064-664 1016; Henry St; meals & snacks €5-15; 10.45am-6pm Mon-Sat) With a great atmosphere and comfy traditional decor, this Kenmare favourite serves a great range of creative sandwiches and Irish dishes with a dash of European flair. The homemade desserts are the bomb.
Whartons ( 064-664 2622; 35 Main St; meals €8-12; 11am-9pm) Traditional fish and chips are the big deal – and almost the only deal – at this spiffy chipper. Dine upstairs or out front.
MIDRANGE
Prego ( 064-664 2350; Henry St; mains €8-25; 8.30am-9pm, to 10.30pm summer) A restaurant for all seasons – and times. Local and organic produce is the basis of this all-day restaurant. The breakfast menu is long and varied and the antidote to every bit of dodgy black pudding you’ve avoided on your B&B plate; lunches feature many specials and are known for their soups and salads. At dinner,