Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [271]
Walk left up the track above the car park and follow the obvious path past a grotto onto the open mountain. The rocky path is very clear. Occasional guide poles mark the way along a rising grassy ridge, with a magnificent line of cliffs and ridges ahead. The path contours around rocky slopes before descending into the glaciated wilderness at the valley head, from where it winds between great boulders and slabs. Yellow arrows on the rocks point the way.
When the back wall is reached, the path zigzags very steeply to the rim of the great cliffs. Turn left at the top and head for the summit of Mt Brandon, marked by a trigonometry point or pillar, a wooden cross and the remains of Teampaillin Breanainn (St Brendan’s Oratory). The views in clear weather from the summit are reverie-inducing, but be alert to the sudden edge of the cliffs. You can continue along the cliffs’ edge to the subsidiary summits and Brandon Peak, 2km south, but this will add a couple of hours. Retracing your steps requires care and concentration on the initial steep zigzags. The rest of the way back to Faha is free-wheeling.
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CONNOR PASS
At 456m, the Connor (or Conor) Pass is the highest in Ireland and offers spectacular views of Dingle Harbour to the south and Mt Brandon to the north. On a foggy day you’ll see nothing but the road just in front of you. The road is in very good shape, excepting that it is very narrow and very steep (large signs portend doom for buses and trucks).
The summit car park yields views down to two lakes in the rock-strewn valley below plus the remains of walls and huts where people once lived impossibly hard lives. When visibility is good, the 10-minute climb to the summit is well worthwhile for the kind of views that inspire mountain-climbers.
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TRALEE TO DINGLE VIA ANNASCAUL
For drivers, the N86 has little to recommend it other than being faster than the Connor Pass route. By bike it’s less demanding. On foot, the Dingle Way runs near the road for the first three days.
The main reason to pause in Annascaul (Abhainn an Scáil), also spelled Anascaul, is to visit the South Pole Inn ( 066-915 7388; Main St; bar meals €8-20; noon-8pm). Antarctic explorer Tom Crean ran the pub in his retirement. Now it’s a regular Crean museum and gift shop, as well as a cracking pub serving hearty dishes worthy of an explorer. Ask to have the ‘polar experience’.
Buses stop here on the Dingle to Tralee run.
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KILLARNEY TO DINGLE VIA CASTLEMAINE
The quickest route from Killarney to Dingle passes through Killorglin and Castlemaine. At Castlemaine, head west on the R561. You’ll soon meet the coast, then go through the beachy seaside town of Inch before joining the N86 to Dingle.
If you’d rather not stay in one more orderly, generic B&B, try Phoenix Vegetarian Restaurant & Accommodation ( 066-976 6284; www.thephoenixorganic.com; Shanahill East, Castlemaine; campsites €18, r €35-80; Easter-Oct) The owner runs a dance centre here and there’s a film club. The restaurant, open year-round, specialises in vegetarian dishes using produce from the organic gardens (lunch €6 to €15, dinner €20 to €30). Rooms are quirkily interesting, but be sure to inspect the gypsy caravans and toilets before you commit.
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DETOUR: MT CAHERCONREE
About 11km west of Castlemaine is the turn-off for Mt Caherconree (825m), signposted as the scenic drive to Camp. About 4km along this road coming from the south is an Iron Age promontory fort that may have been built by Cúror MacDáine, king of Munster.
Whichever direction you come from, there are stunning views of Caherconree