Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [293]
The caves are near Burncourt, 16km southwest of Cahir and signposted on the N8 to Mitchelstown (Baile Mhistéala).
Sleeping
Mountain Lodge Hostel ( 052-746 7277; www.anoige.ie; Burncourt; dm €16; May-Sep) This 24-bed An Óige hostel (housed in an attractive former shooting lodge), is 6km north of the caves, and is a handy base for wandering the Galtee Mountains. It lies to the north of the N8 Mitchelstown–Cahir road, and is electricity-free, being lit by gas.
Getting There & Away
Frequent Bus Éireann ( 062-51555) buses from Dublin to Cork or Athlone drop off at the Mountain Lodge Hostel gate.
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CLONMEL
pop 16,000
Clonmel (Cluain Meala; ‘Meadows of Honey’) is Tipperary’s largest and most bustling town. It’s worth a stop for a stroll along the wide River Suir, a browse of the many shops (the timeless market town feel is so tangible that you keep looking for someone in stocks), and a chance to load up on supplies.
Laurence Sterne (1713–68), author of A Sentimental Journey and Tristram Shandy, was a native of the town. However, the commercial cheerleader for Clonmel was Italian-born Charles Bianconi (1786–1875), who, at the precocious age of 16, was sent to Ireland by his father in an attempt to break his liaison with a woman. Bianconi later channelled all his frustrated passion into setting up a coach service between Clonmel and Cahir; his company quickly grew to become a nationwide passenger and mail carrier. For putting Clonmel on the map, Bianconi was twice elected mayor.
Orientation
Clonmel’s centre lies on the northern bank of the River Suir. Set back from the quays and running parallel to the river, the main street runs east-west, starting off as Parnell St and becoming Mitchell St and O’Connell St before passing under West Gate, where it changes to Irishtown and Abbey Rd. Running north from this long thoroughfare is Gladstone St, which has a number of hotels and pubs.
There’s a confounding system of one-way streets; you’ll find refuge in the vast parking lot off Gladstone and Mary Sts.
Information
AIB Bank (O’Connell St) Has an ATM and bureau de change.
Circles Internet ( 052-612 3315; 16 Market St; per 10min €1; 11am-11pm)
Post office (Emmet St)
Sophie’s Bookshop ( 052-618 0752; 15 Mitchell St) Cute; has a good selection of general and travel books, as well as books of local interest.
Tourist office ( 052-612 2960; St Mary’s Church, Mary St; 9.30am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Set in quiet church grounds; the free town map available here has excellent details on local sights and history.
Sights
At the junction of Mitchell and Sarsfield Sts is the beautifully restored Main Guard ( 052-612 7484; www.heritageireland.ie; Sarsfield St; admission free; 9.30am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep), a Butler courthouse dating from 1675 and based on a design by Christopher Wren. The columned porticos are once again open (after renovations) and exhibits include the ubiquitous model of Clonmel as a walled 17th-century town.
In Nelson St, south of Parnell St, is the refurbished County Courthouse, designed by Richard Morrison in 1802. It was here that the Young Irelanders of 1848, including Thomas Francis Meagher, were tried and sentenced to transportation to Australia.
West along Mitchell St (past the town hall with its statue commemorating the 1798 Rising) and south down Abbey St is the Franciscan friary. Inside, near the door, is a 1533 Butler tomb depicting a knight and his lady. There’s some fine modern stained glass, especially in St Anthony’s Chapel to the north.
Turn south down Bridge St and cross the river, following the road round until it opens out at Lady Blessington’s Bath, a picturesque stretch of the river that is just right for picnicking.
The South Tipperary County Museum ( 052-613 4550; www.southtippcoco.ie; Mick Delahunty Sq; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat) has displays on the history of County Tipperary from Neolithic times to the present, and hosts changing exhibitions.
Near the museum, look for the life-size Frank Patterson