Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [312]
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The local farmers market ( 9am-2pm Thu) is held on the Butter Market square.
Getting There & Around
Bus Éireann has one or two buses daily to Limerick (1¾ hours), Ennis (one hour) and Kilkee (15 minutes). Fares average €7.
You can hire bikes at Gleeson’s Cycles ( 065-905 1127; Henry St; per day/week €20/80).
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SCATTERY ISLAND
This uninhabited, windswept, treeless island, 3km southwest of Kilrush in the estuary was the site of a Christian settlement founded by St Senan in the 6th century. Its 36m-high round tower is one of the tallest and best preserved in Ireland, and the entrance is at ground level instead of the usual position high above the foundation. The remains of five medieval churches include a 9th-century cathedral. This is a moody and evocative place to wander about.
An exhibition on the history and wildlife of the Heritage Service–administered island is housed in the Scattery Island Visitor Centre (www.heritageireland.ie; admission free; 10am-6pm Jun-Sep).
Scattery Island Ferries ( 065-905 1327; Kilrush Creek Marina; adult/child €12/6; Jun-Sep) runs boats from Kilrush to the island. There’s no strict timetable as the trips are subject to tidal and weather conditions. There’s a stay of about 1hr on the island. You can buy tickets at the small kiosk at the marina.
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KILKEE
pop 1300
During the summer, Kilkee’s wide beach is thronged with day trippers and holiday makers. The semicircular bay has high cliffs on the north end and tidal rocks to the south. The sea puts on a show anytime as large breakers pound the shore.
Kilkee (Cill Chaoi) first became popular in Victorian times when rich Limerick families built seaside retreats here. Today, it is well supplied with guesthouses, amusement arcades and takeaways, although good taste – mostly – prevails.
Information
Bank of Ireland (O’Curry St) Has an ATM.
Post office (O’Connell St) Across from the library.
Tourist office ( 065-905 6112; O’Connell St; 9.30am-5.30pm Jun-Aug) Near the seafront.
Sights & Activities
Many visitors come for the fine sheltered beach and the Pollock Holes, natural swimming pools in the Duggerna Rocks. St George’s Head, to the north, has good cliff walks and scenery, while south of the bay, the Duggerna Rocks form an unusual natural amphitheatre. Further south is a huge sea cave. These sights can be reached by driving to Kilkee’s West End area and following the coastal path.
Kilkee is a well-known diving centre. There are shore dives from the Duggerna Rocks fringing the bay and boat dives on the Black Rocks further out. Experience and local knowledge or guidance are strongly advised. Right at the tip of the Duggerna Rocks is the small inlet of Myles Creek, out from which lies excellent underwater scenery. Oceanlife Ireland ( 065-905 6707; www.diveireland.com; George’s Head, Kilkee), by the harbour, has tanks and other equipment for hire and runs a range of courses.
Sleeping
Kilkee has plenty of guesthouses and B&Bs, though during the high season rates can soar and you may have a problem finding a vacancy.
Green Acres Caravan & Camping Park ( 065-905 7011; Doonaha, Kilkee; campsites €20; Apr-Sep) Beside the Shannon, 6km south of Kilkee on the R487, this is a small, open and peaceful park with 40 sites.
Lynch’s B&B ( 065-905 6420; www.lynchskilkee.com; O’Connell St; s/d from €45/70; ) The three-masted model in the window tells you that things are shipshape in this perfectly located B&B in the centre. Guest rooms have hardwood floors and bedspreads with designs that will bring a smile to aunties everywhere.
Strand Guest House ( 065-905 6177; www.thestrandkilkee.com; The Strand; s/d from €55/90) Right across from the water, this six-room guesthouse is a veteran of many a summer. The rooms are simply decorated, but do have telephones. Some have great views as does the lounge, which has picnic tables outside for a little salt-spray in your stout.
Stella Maris Hotel ( 065-905 6455; www.stellamarishotel.com; O’Connell St; s/d from €65/120; ) There are