Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [314]
Long Dock ( 065-905 8106; West St; meals €6-24; food served 11am-9pm) is an atmospheric pub-restaurant combo. Stone walls and floors and a welcoming fire are only the start. Fresh fish is the thing here; you’ll see the purveyors out working in the estuary or even drinking at the bar. Nab a table outdoors on a summer night.
Like Carrigaholt, Morrissey’s Village Pub ( 065-905 8041; West St) hasn’t changed much in a long time and is all the better for it. Get your feet ready for music and dancing many nights through the year. Other boozy vets are nearby.
Kilbaha
pop 50
The land at this minute waterfront village is as barren as the soul of the 19th-century landlord who burned down the local church so his workers wouldn’t waste productive hours praying. Even today the scars are felt. Gazing at the ruins of the landlord’s house far up the hillside, a local says: ‘Yeah, we got rid of him’, as if the events of 150 years ago were yesterday.
You can learn more about this story and other aspects of local life from a unique modern-day scroll, an open-air sculpture that relates the area’s history.
The Lighthouse Inn ( 065-905 8358; www.thelighthouseinn.ie; s/d from €40/70) is a stolid place right on the water, with 11 basic rooms. The pub serves sandwiches and the like through the year and more complex seafood dinners (from €12) in summer. Trad sessions some nights are a bonus.
Loop Head
On a clear day, Loop Head (Ceann Léime), Clare’s southernmost point, has magnificent views south to the Dingle Peninsula crowned by Mt Brandon (951m), and north to the Aran Islands and Galway Bay. There are bracing walks in the area and a long hiking trail runs along the cliffs to Kilkee. A working lighthouse (complete with Fresnel lens) is the punctuation on the point.
The often deserted wilds of the head are perfect for a little DIY fun. Loop Head Adventures ( 065-905 8875; loopheadsports@eircom.net; May-Oct) rents gear and gives advice for cycling (bikes €15 per day), fishing (rods and gear €15 per day) and snorkelling (drysuits and gear €35 per day). It’s located a short distance from the lighthouse.
Return to beginning of chapter
KILKEE TO ENNISTYMON
North of Kilkee, the land flattens, with vistas that sweep across pastures and dunes. The N67 runs inland for some 32km until it reaches Quilty. Take the occasional lane to the west and search out unfrequented places such as White Strand, north of Doonbeg. Ballard Bay is 8km west of Doonbeg, where an old telegraph tower looks over some fine cliffs. Donegal Point has the remains of a promontory fort. There’s good fishing all along the coast, and safe beaches at Seafield, Lough Donnell and Quilty. Off the coast of Quilty, look for Mutton Island, a barren expanse sporting an ancient tower.
Doonbeg
pop 610
Doonbeg (An Dún Beag) is a tiny seaside village about halfway between Kilkee and Quilty. Another Spanish Armada ship, the San Esteban, was wrecked on 20 September 1588 near the mouth of the River Doonbeg. The survivors were later executed at Spanish Point. Note the surviving wee little 16th-century castle tower next to the graceful seven-arch stone bridge over the river.
White Strand (Trá Ban) is a quiet beach, 2km long and backed by dunes. It’s north of town and hard to miss, as it’s now been surrounded by the snooty – and hulking – Doonbeg Golf Resort and Lodge. From the public car park (protected from the adjacent resort hotel by a stout fence, no doubt so the swells won’t steal your hubcaps), you follow a break in the dunes to a perfect sweep of sand.
Doonbeg also has some decent surfing for those who want to get away from the crowds in Lahinch (right).
SLEEPING & EATING
For campers there are often spots on the side roads around Doonbeg that make a good pitch, with glorious sunsets as a bonus. The town has two popular rural pubs where locals celebrate anything they can think of.
Whitestrand B&B ( 065-905