Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [317]
* * *
Entertainment
Eugene’s ( 065-707 1777; Main St) Not to be missed, Eugene’s is a classic pub that defines craic. It’s intimate, cosy and has a trademark collection of visiting cards covering its walls, alongside photographs of famous writers and musicians. The inspiring collection of whiskey (Irish) and whisky (Scottish) will have you smoothly debating their relative merits.
Cooley’s House ( 065-707 1712; Main St) Another great old pub, but with music most nights in summer and on Wednesday (trad night) in winter.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann runs one or two buses daily through Ennistymon on the Doolin–Ennis/Limerick routes and one or two daily south along the coast via Lahinch to Doonbeg in summer. Buses stop in front of Aherne’s on Church St.
Return to beginning of chapter
LISCANNOR & AROUND
pop 380
This small seaside village overlooks Liscannor Bay, where the road (R478) heads north to the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin. Liscannor (Lios Ceannúir) has given its name to a type of local stone – slatelike and with a rippled surface – that is used for floors, walls and even roofs.
John Philip Holland (1840–1914), the inventor of the submarine, was born in Liscannor. He emigrated to the USA in 1873, and dreamed that his invention would be used to sink British warships. There’s a rather silly statue of the man (or is it a walrus?) in front of the Cliffs of Moher Hotel.
Sleeping & Eating
Moher Lodge Farmhouse ( 065-708 1269; www.cliffsofmoher-ireland.com; s/d €50/75; Apr-Oct) This big bungalow is in a great position overlooking the owner’s open farmlands and the sea. The four rooms are welcoming after a day rambling; there’s much to ramble to. It’s 3km northwest of Liscannor, 1.6km from the Cliffs of Moher.
Cliffs of Moher Hotel ( 065-708 6770; www.cliffsofmoherhotel.ie; Main St; s/d from €60/100; ) A modest yet modern inn right in the centre, this hotel has 23 nicely furnished and comfortable rooms. Local icons above and below the sea are recalled in the Puffin Bar and Submarine Restaurant.
Vaughan’s Anchor Inn ( 065-708 1548; Main St; mains €12-25; kitchen noon-9.30pm) Noted for its excellent seafood (yes to the scallops and halibut), Vaughan’s packs ’em in – and out. When it rains, you can settle in by a peat fire, when it shines (sometimes 15 minutes later) you can take in the air at a picnic table.
Joseph McHugh’s Bar ( 065-708 1163; Main St) Next to Vaughan’s, lots of courtyard tables and regular trad sessions make this old pub a winner.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann runs one to three buses daily through Liscannor on the Doolin–Ennis/Limerick routes.
Return to beginning of chapter
HAG’S HEAD
Forming the southern end of the Cliffs of Moher, Hag’s Head is a dramatic place from which to view the cliffs.
There’s a huge sea arch at the tip of Hag’s Head and another arch visible to the north. The signal tower on the Head was erected in case Napoleon tried to attack on the western coast of Ireland. The tower is built on the site of an ancient promontory fort called Mothair, which has given its name to the famous cliffs to the north. A walking trail links the head with the cliffs and Liscannor.
Return to beginning of chapter
CLIFFS OF MOHER
Star of a million tourist brochures, the Cliffs of Moher (Aillte an Mothair, or Ailltreacha Mothair) are one of the most popular sights in Ireland. But like many an ageing star, you have to look beyond the famous facade to appreciate the inherent attributes behind the postcard image.
The entirely vertical cliffs rise to a height of 203m, their edge falling away abruptly into the constantly churning sea. A series of heads, the dark limestone seems to march in a rigid formation that amazes,