Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [332]
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HISTORY
Galway’s Irish name, Gaillimh, originates from the Irish word gaill, meaning ‘outsiders’ or ‘foreigners’, and the term resonates throughout the city’s history.
From humble beginnings as a tiny fishing village at the mouth of the River Corrib, it grew into an important town when the Anglo-Normans, under Richard de Burgo (also spelled de Burgh or Burke), captured territory from the local O’Flahertys in 1232. Its fortified walls were built from around 1270.
In 1396 Richard II granted a charter transferring power from the de Burgos to 14 merchant families or ‘tribes’ – hence Galway’s enduring nickname: City of the Tribes. (Each of the city’s roundabouts is named for the one of the tribes.) These powerful, mostly English or Norman families clashed frequently with the leading Irish families of Connemara.
A massive fire in 1473 destroyed much of the town but created space for a new street layout, and many solid stone buildings were erected in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Galway maintained its independent status under the ruling merchant families, who were mostly loyal to the English Crown. Its coastal location encouraged a huge trade in wine, spices, fish and salt with Portugal and Spain, rivalling London in the volume of goods passing through its docks. Its support of the Crown, however, led to its downfall; the city was besieged by Cromwell in 1651 and fell the following year. In 1691 William of Orange’s militia added to the destruction. Trade with Spain declined and, with Dublin and Waterford taking most sea traffic, Galway stagnated for centuries.
The early 1900s saw Galway’s revival as tourists returned to the city and student numbers grew. In 1934 the cobbled streets and thatched cabins of Claddagh were tarred and flattened to make way for modern, hygienic buildings, and construction has boomed since.
Galway’s population has grown rapidly – as those estates you see on the outskirts attest – and it is among the fastest-growing cities in Europe.
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ORIENTATION
Galway’s compact town centre straddles Europe’s shortest river, the Corrib, which connects Lough Corrib to the sea. Most shops and services congregate on the river’s eastern bank, while some of the city’s best music pubs and restaurants are huddled to its west. From this area, known locally as the West Side, a 10-minute walk leads you out to the beginning of the seaside suburb of Salthill.
Running west from grassy Eyre Sq, the city’s pedestrianised primary shopping street starts as Williamsgate St, becomes William St and then Shop St, before forking into Mainguard St and High St. Just east of Eyre Sq is the combined bus and train station, half a block northeast of which is the main tourist office.
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INFORMATION
Bookshops
Charlie Byrne’s ( 091-561 766; Cornstore, Middle St) Brilliant collection of second-hand and discounted books (many €1) in a succession of rambling rooms.
Eason’s ( 091-562 284; Shop St) Superstore with a large selection of travel guides and Galway’s biggest periodicals rack.
Internet Access
A plethora of internet cafes around town charge around €5 per hour. Places open up and close down quickly, but you’ll have no problems finding somewhere to log on.
Square Eyes ( 091-500 688; Forster St; noon-midnight) Internet access upstairs, Call of Duty grunts downstairs.
Laundry
Olde Malt Laundrette ( 091-564 990; High St; drop-off service per load €10; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat).
Prospect Hill Laundrette ( 091-568 343; Prospect Hill; self-service per load €7; 8am-7pm Mon-Sat).
Left Luggage
The transport stations are locker free, but there is a central refuge for your bags while you hunt for a room.
Cara Cabs ( 091-563 939; 17 Eyre Sq; 24hr) Taxi