Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [335]
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Bold Art Gallery
There’s never a dull moment at the effervescent modern art gallery ( 091-539 900; www.boldartgallery.com; Merchant’s Rd; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat), which seems to have a bottomless pit of inspiration when it comes to wit. Works vary between the profane, the beautiful and the moving but are never mundane. The owner is a fountain of local knowledge; ask to see the card showing what happens before and after you drink Guinness.
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GALWAY HOOKERS
Obvious jokes aside, Galway hookers are the iconic small sailing boats that were the basis of local seafaring during the 19th century and part of the 20th century. Small, tough and highly manoeuvrable, these wooden boats are undergoing a resurgence thanks to weekend sailors and hobbyists. The hulls are jet black, due to the pitch used for waterproofing, while the sails flying from the single mast are a distinctive rust colour. Expect to see them all along the Galway coast.
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Nora Barnacle House
James Joyce courted his future wife Nora Barnacle (1884–1951) at this little house ( 091-564 743; www.norabarnacle.com; 8 Bowling Green), beginning in 1909. It’s now a privately owned museum displaying the couple’s letters and photographs among evocatively arranged furniture. Hours are erratic; call ahead or check with the tourist office. Expect to pay around €3 admission.
Salthill
A favourite pastime for Galwegians and visitors alike is walking along the Prom, the seaside promenade running from the edge of the city along Salthill. Local tradition dictates ‘kicking the wall’ across from the diving boards (a 2.5km stroll from town starting at the Wolfe Tone Bridge and following the shoreline path) before turning around. At the time of writing, plans were under way to extend the Prom all the way from Salthill to Silver Strand – about 7.5km all up.
In and around Salthill are plenty of cosy pubs from where you can watch storms roll over the bay. Between May and September, you can also catch the traditional Irish dance and music spectacular, Trad on the Prom ( 087 238 8489; www.tradontheprom.com; Salt Hill Hotel). The website posts show times and ticket information including various dinner-and-show packages.
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TOURS
If you’re short on time, bus tours departing from Galway are a good way to see Connemara, the Burren or the Cliffs of Moher, while boat tours take you to the heart of Lough Corrib. Tours can be booked directly or at the tourist office.
Burren Wild Tours ( 087 877 9565; www.burrenwalks.com; adult/student €25/22) Seasonal bus tours to the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher incorporating an easy 90-minute guided mountain walk.
Corrib Princess ( 091-592 447; www.corribprincess.ie; Woodquay; adult/child €16/8; May-Sep) Two to three 1½-hour cruises on the River Corrib and Lough Corrib per day, departing from Woodquay, just beyond Salmon Weir Bridge.
Lally Coaches ( 091-562 905; www.lallytours.com; adult/child €23/14) Entertaining, informative bus tours of Connemara, or the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher with local guides.
O’Neachtain Tours ( 091-553 188; www.ontours.biz; adult/child €25/15) Runs coach tours of Connemara, or the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher.
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SLEEPING
You’ll find B&Bs lining the major approach roads, including many in Salthill, but to take full advantage of Galway’s tightly packed attractions, try for a room in the city centre. If you’re planning to stay in Galway for an extended period, Wednesday’s edition of the free Galway Advertiser (www.galwayadvertiser.ie) lists rental properties.
Galway’s festivals (opposite) and easy striking