Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [338]
Hotel Meyrick ( 091-564 041; www.hotelmeyrick.ie; Eyre Sq; r €165-250; ) Known as the Railway Hotel when it opened in 1852, and later as the Great Southern Hotel, this stately showpiece looms large over Eyre Sq. A massive renovation artfully combines traditional decor with savvy modern touches. Note the zebra prints on the lobby chairs. Definitely not original equipment: the rooftop hot tub. All 97 guest rooms include bath-tubs and high-speed internet.
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EATING
Seafood is Galway’s speciality, be it fish and chips, ocean-fresh chowder or sea bass cooked to perfection. Galway Bay oysters are also found locally. The city’s smorgasbord of eating and drinking options ranges from the market – where farmers in wellington boots unload soil-covered vegetables – to adventurous new restaurants redefining Irish cuisine.
Pedestrianised Quay St is lined with restaurants aimed at the tourist throngs. As one local told us, ‘I can remember when all you’d get on Quay St was a hard biscuit, then you’d get run down by a bus.’
Restaurants
Ard Bia & Nimmo’s ( 091-539 897; www.ardbia.com; Spanish Arch; cafe dishes €6-12, lunch mains €10-14, dinner mains €16-30; cafe noon-3pm Wed-Sun, restaurant 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat) In Irish, Ard Bia means ‘High Food’, and that’s somewhat apt, given the location in the 18th-century customs house near the Spanish Arch. Local seafood and organic produce feature on the seasonal menu. Nimmo’s, on the ground floor, is funkier and has a North African bent.
Mustard ( 091-532 752; Bridge Mills; mains €8-12; noon-10pm) In the cellar of an old mill, some tables view the still-turning wheel. Burgers and excellent pizza are the thing here. Go nuts and have the Boxty Burger, a vegetarian treat made from mashed potatoes, green onions and more. Be sure to start with the ‘garlic crust’, which comes with pesto. Yum.
McDonagh’s ( 091-565 001; 22 Quay St; fish & chips from €8, restaurant mains €15-25; cafe & takeaway counter noon-midnight Mon-Sat, 5-11pm Sun, restaurant 5-10pm Mon-Sat) A trip to Galway isn’t complete without stopping at McDonagh’s (something even locals confirm – we heard one exclaim happily, ‘I haven’t been here in years!’). Divided into two parts, with a takeaway counter and a cafe with long communal wooden tables on one side, and a more upmarket restaurant on the other, Galway’s best chippy churns out battered cod, plaice, haddock, whiting and salmon nonstop, all accompanied by homemade tartare sauce.
Finnegan’s ( 091-564 764; 2 Market St; mains €10; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun) Organic, schmorganic. A haven for the masses, Finnegan’s warms the soul with timeless comfort food like homemade shepherd’s pie. Look for trad standards like Irish stew, roast chicken and all-day Irish breakfasts. Rub elbows with your bus driver and find out the tricks of the trade.
Kirwan’s Lane Restaurant ( 091-568 266; Kirwan’s Lane; lunch mains €10-18, dinner mains €18-30; noon-2pm & 6-10pm) Happily hidden on a tiny square within steps of several busy streets, Kirwan’s is not only a refuge but also a heaven for those seeking out the best of local cuisine. The menu proudly lists the provenance of the ingredients used in a variety of creative dishes. On sunny days, get a patio table at lunch.
Quays ( 091-568 347; Quay St; mains €12-25; 11am-10pm) This sprawling pub does a roaring business downstairs in its restaurant, which has hearty carvery lunches and more ambitious mains at night. The cold seafood platter is simply a symphony of the bounty from Galway Bay. Students on dates and out celebrating get rowdier as the pints and hours pass.
Asian Tea House ( 091-563 749; 13 Mary St; mains €15-25; 5pm-10pm) A stylish addition to Galway’s dining scene, this upscale Asian restaurant reflects the owner’s years of Eastern travels. Beautiful glazed green tiles set the mood for dishes that range from