Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [340]
Gourmet Tart Co ( 091-588 384; Lower Abbeygate St; mains €5-10; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Food porn is an apt description for the stunning array of dishes on offer here in both the deli case and at the bounteous buffet bar. Luscious salads, salmon, beautiful sandwiches and, yes, tarts that give pastry a good name. It’s all take out; enjoy your lunch on the grass by the Spanish Arch.
Sheridans Cheesemongers ( 091-564 829; 14 Churchyard St; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat) Sheridans Cheesemongers is redolent of the superb local and international cheeses and other deli items within, many with a Med bent. Its real secret, however, is up a narrow flight of stairs. Sample from a huge wine list in an airy and woodsy room while enjoying many of the best items from below (open 2pm to 9pm Tuesday to Friday, noon to 8pm Saturday).
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DRINKING
Galway’s nickname of the City of Tribes sums up its drinking and entertainment scene. For its size the city has surprisingly distinct areas where you’ll encounter different crowds: Eyre Sq and its surrounds tends to be the domain of retail and office workers and tourists; the main shopping strip draws hip young professionals; the Woodquay area, near Salmon Weir Bridge, is where salt-of-the-earth rural folk congregate when in town; and the West Side attracts creative types and musicians. Wherever you go, you’ll enjoy pubs that are a cut above the norm. The website Galway City Pub Guide (www.galwaycitypubguide.com) is a good resource.
Most of Galway’s pubs see musicians performing at least a couple of nights a week, whether in an informal session or as a headline act, and many swing to live music every night.
Séhán Ua Neáchtain ( 091-568 820; 17 Upper Cross St) Painted a bright cornflower blue, this 19th-century pub, known simply as Neáchtain’s (nock-tans), has a wraparound string of tables outside, many shaded by a large tree. It’s a place where locals plop down and let the world pass them by – or stop and join them for a pint.
Crane Bar ( 091-587 419; 2 Sea Rd) An atmospheric old pub west of the Corrib, the Crane is the best spot in Galway to catch an informal céilidh (session of traditional music and dancing) most nights. Talented bands play its rowdy, good-natured upstairs bar; downstairs at times it seems right out of The Far Side.
Róisín Dubh ( 091-586 540; Upper Dominick St) From the rooftop terrace you can see sweeping views of Galway; inside you can see emerging acts before they hit the big time.
Bar No 8 ( 091-565 111; 3 Dock Rd) Bentwood chairs and overstuffed sofas provide comfort in this at once funky and stylish bar overlooking the harbour. Art by patrons is on display; order from the long drinks list and debate the merits.
Tig Cóilí (Mainguard St) Two live céilidh a day draw the crowds to this authentic fire-engine-red pub, just off High St. It’s where musicians go to get drunk or drunks go to become musicians…or something like that. A gem.
Murphy’s ( 091-564 589; 9 High St) A complete anomaly amongst the partying throngs in the centre, Murphy’s is a timeless haven where locals still explore the limits of the art of conversation. The sign on the door says it all: ‘No hen parties’.
Monroe’s Tavern ( 091-583 397; Upper Dominick St) Often photographed for its classic, world-weary facade, Monroe’s delivers traditional music and ballads, plus it remains the only pub in the city with regular Irish dancing. A pizza joint buried within turns out good pies.
Bierhaus ( 091-587 766; 2 Henry St; ) The imported beer here won’t insult your sensibilities. Good brews from across Europe are on offer along with Hooker. At night DJs provide a Euro beat.
Other good places:
Front Door ( 091-563 757; High St) Heated balconies and cosy timber booths make this a popular spot for a pint, especially among local women on the ‘lap circuit’ checking out the male talent.
Garavan’s ( 091-562 537; 46 William St) A genteel old boozer in the city centre that is a place of refuge for those in search of a pint and