Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [352]
If you want to join the fun, you can enrol in short courses at the International Summer School of the National University of Ireland, Galway ( 091-495 442; www.nuigalway.ie/iss) and Cnoc Suain Cultural Centre ( 091-555 703; www.cnocsuain.com) in Spiddal.
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CAR
Your own wheels are the best way to get off this scenic region’s beaten track – though watch out for the narrow roads’ stone walls, just waiting to scrape the sides of your car.
Keep an eye out, too, for meandering Connemara sheep – characterised by thick creamy fleece and coal-black faces and legs – which frequently wander onto the road. Even Connemara’s flattest stretches of road tend to be bumpy due to the uneven bog beneath the tarmac.
Heading west from Galway, you can either take the coast road (R336) through Salthill, Barna and Spiddal, or the direct inland route (N59) through Oughterard. The journey from Maam Cross northwest to Leenane (R336) or northeast to Cong (R345) in County Mayo takes you through the stunning mountainous region of Joyce’s country.
Many road signs in this area are in Irish only, so take note of the Irish place names (in parentheses) that are listed in this section.
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COASTAL DRIVE – GALWAY CITY TO MACE HEAD
The slow coastal route between Galway and Connemara takes you past pretty seascapes and villages, although the fun doesn’t really begin until after Inverin.
Opposite the popular Blue Flag beach Silver Strand, 4.8km west of Galway, are the Barna Woods, a dense, deep green forest perfect for rambling and picnicking. Conserved by the Galway County Council, the woods contain the last natural growing oaks in Ireland’s west.
The once unspoilt village of Barna, a further 3km west, has been inundated by recent development (to the chagrin of locals, who campaigned passionately and, ultimately, futilely against it). Barna is, however, home to some of the greater Galway area’s best seafood at O’Grady’s on the Pier ( 091-592 223; www.ogradysonthepier.com; mains €15-30; from 6pm Mon-Sun & 12.30-2.45pm Sun). Daily specials include many ocean-fresh catches. Long, lazy Sunday lunches attract legions of locals; book ahead.
West again, Spiddal (An Spidéal) is a refreshingly untouched little village, and the start of the Gaeltacht region. On your right as you approach the village are the Spiddal Craft & Design Studios ( 091-553 376; www.ceardlann.com; hours vary), where you can watch woodworkers, leatherworkers, sculptors and weavers plying their crafts, or have lunch at Bistro Jackie ( 091-55030), which offers superlative soda bread.
Exceptional traditional music sessions take place at the unassuming Tigh Hughes ( 091-553 447; Spiddal) – it’s not uncommon for major musicians to turn up unannounced and join in the craic. Sessions start at around 9pm on Tuesdays. The pub’s just adjacent to the main street; turn right at the town centre’s little crossroads next to the bank, and it’s a couple of doors up on your right.
A few kilometres west of Spiddal, the scenery becomes more dramatic, with parched fields criss-crossed by low stone walls rolling to a ragged shore. Carraroe (An Cheathrú Rua) has fine beaches, including the Coral Strand, which is composed entirely of shell and coral fragments. It’s worth wandering the small roads on all sides of Greatman’s Bay to discover tiny inlets and little coves, often watched over by the genial local donkeys.
Lettermore, Gorumna and Lettermullen islands are low and bleak, with a handful of farmers eking out an existence from minute, rocky fields. Fish farming is big business.
Near Gortmore, along the R340, is Patrick Pearse’s Cottage (Teach an Phiarsaigh; 091-574 292; www.heritageireland.ie; adult/child €3/1; 10am-6pm Easter & Jun-Aug). Pádraig Pearse (1879–1916) led the Easter Rising with James Connolly in 1916; after the revolt he was executed by the British. Pearse