Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [361]
Activities
Canoeing, sea kayaking, sailing, rock climbing, windsurfing and day hikes are but a few of the activities on offer at Killary Adventure Centre ( 095-43411; www.killaryadventure.com; 10am-5pm), approximately 3km west of Leenane on the N59. Rates begin at adult/child €50/32.
From Nancy’s Point, about 2km west of Leenane, Killary Cruises ( 091-566 736; www.killarycruises.com; adult/child €21/10) offers 1½-hour cruises of Killary Harbour. Dolphins leap around the boat, which passes by a mussel farm and stops at a salmon farm, where you’ll see the fish being fed. There are four cruises per day from April to October.
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DETOUR: CONNEMARA’S NORTH COAST
Although Connemara is one long series of stunning sights, the north coast is supremely sublime. Its gorgeous beaches compete for your attention with stark, raw mountain vistas and views out to the moody sea.
Eschew the N59 for a series of small roads that follow the twists and turns along the coast for about 15km. Start at Letterfrack, where a narrow track leads northwest. Follow various small roads, sticking as close to the water as you can. The land here seems to be in the midst of a beautiful dissolution into the sea. You may find yourself on a road that comes to a dead end at a beach. Good! Get out and take a deep breath.
At Renvyle you can pause for the night. Renvyle Beach Caravan & Camping ( 095-43462; www.renvylebeachcaravanpark.com; Renvyle; campsites €15-20; Easter-Sep) has campsites on a grassy expanse with direct access to a sandy beach. Renvyle House Hotel ( 095-43511; www.renvyle.com; Renvyle; r €100-250; ) is a luxurious 68-room converted country estate that was once owned by the poet Oliver St John Gogarty (among his better lines: ‘If anyone thinks that I amn’t divine, He gets no free drinks when I’m making the wine’).
Continue east, past a couple of fine country pubs at the tiny crossroads of Tully Cross. Stick to the coast and stop often – especially on sunny days to marvel at the rich kaleidoscope of colours: rich cobalt sea, cerulean sky, emerald-green grass, brown hills, slate-grey rocks and white-sand beaches. The beach horse-racing sequences for The Quiet Man were shot at Lettergesh.
Look for a turn to Rosroe Quay, where a truly magnificent crescent of sand awaits at Glassillaun Beach. If you’re drawn to the beauty of the water, Scuba Dive West ( 095-43922; www.scubadivewest.com) is based at Glassillaun Beach, and runs highly recommended courses and dives around the surrounding coastlines and islands. Rates span the gamut.
Continue southeast along the final 5km stretch of road that runs along Lough Fee. In spring when the gorse explodes in yellow bloom, the views here are, again, simply breathtaking. When you reach the N59, you may be ready for a break – maybe a cigarette – after this orgy of beauty.
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There are several excellent walks from Leenane, including one to Aasleagh Waterfall (Eas Liath), about 3km away on the northeastern side of Killary Harbour. Also from Leenane, the road runs west for about 2km along the southern shore. Where the highway veers inland, walkers can continue on an old road along the shore to the tiny fishing community of Rosroe Quay; see the boxed text, Click here for a detailed route description. For guided day and overnight walks in the region, Gerry Greensmyth from Croagh Patrick Walking Tours ( 098-26090; www.walkingguideireland.com) has a wealth of local expertise.
Sleeping & Eating
Sleepzone Connemara ( 095-42929; www.sleepzone.ie; campsites from €12, dm €20-26, s €50, d €70; Mar-Oct; ) This renovated 19th-century property has over 100 beds in spotless dorms and private rooms. Popular with walkers, its amenities include a bar, barbecue terrace, tennis