Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [364]
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EASTERN GALWAY
Lough Corrib separates eastern Galway from the dramatic landscape of Connemara and the county’s western coast, and this region is markedly different. This is farm country and there’s nary a hint of the geologic drama and cultural excitement that exists in the west of the county. Several diversions provide good reason to pause on the Dublin drive.
Galway East Tourism ( 091-850 687; www.galwayeast.com) has regional information.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 091-562 000) services connect Galway with Athenry, Ballinasloe and Loughrea. Services from Galway to/from Portumna require a change at Kilbeggan, County Westmeath.
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ATHENRY
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The name Athenry is synonymous with the stirring song ‘The Fields of Athenry’, composed by Pete St John in the 1970s, which recounts incarceration resulting from the Famine. Often thought to be adapted from an 1880s ballad (disputed by St John), it’s been covered by countless artists, and is sung by passionate crowds at sporting matches, including in adapted forms such as Liverpool Football Club’s anthem, ‘The Fields of Anfield Road’. The town website (www.athenry.net) lists sleeping and eating options.
The walled town, 16km east of Galway, takes its own name from a nearby ford (áth in Irish) that crosses the River Clare east of the settlement and was the meeting point for three kingdoms, hence Áth an Rí (Ford of the Kings).
The fascinating Athenry Arts & Heritage Activity Centre ( 091-844 661; www.athenryheritagecentre.com; The Square; 11am-4pm Mar-Oct) explores the town’s medieval sights and can outline walking itineraries.
Touted as Ireland’s most intact collection of medieval architecture, the city holds a number of preserved buildings, including a restored Norman castle, the Medieval Parish Church of St Mary’s, a Dominican priory with superb masonry on its occupational gravestones, and an original market cross.
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LOUGHREA & AROUND
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Named for the little lake at its southern edge, Loughrea (Baile Locha Riach) is a bustling market town 26km southeast of Galway. Loughrea has Ireland’s last functioning medieval moat, which runs from the lake at Fair Green near the cathedral to the River Loughrea north of town.
Not to be confused with St Brendan’s Church on Church St, which is now a library, St Brendan’s Catholic Cathedral ( 091-841 212; Barrack St; 11.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri), dating from 1903, is renowned for its Celtic-revival stained-glass windows, furnishings and marble columns.
Near Bullaun, 7km north of Loughrea, is the pillarlike Turoe Stone, covered in delicate La Tène–style relief carvings. It dates from between 300 BC and AD 100. The Turoe Stone wasn’t set here originally, but was found at an Iron Age fort a few kilometres away.
On the road east to Ballinasloe, 6.5km from Loughrea, the Dartfield Horse Museum & Park ( 091-843 968; www.dartfieldhorsemuseum.com; adult/child €10/5; 9am-6pm) allows horse lovers to learn about horse breeding, carriages, the colourful racing industry and the horse’s role in Irish history. There’s also a lot here about rural life in Ireland in the 19th century. The pony rides thrill kids.
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BALLINASLOE
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On the main Dublin–Galway road (N6), Ballinasloe (Béal Átha na Sluaighe) is famed for its historic October horse fair (www.ballinasloe.com), which dates right back to the high kings of Tara. Attending the horse fair invariably involves sloshing through muddy fields – bring boots and don’t wear white! Don