Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [370]
The newly reopened, multipurpose establishment Delphi Mountain Resort ( 095-42987, 095-42208; www.delphiescape.com; dm €40, s/d €134/198; ), built from rough-cut stone and honey-coloured wood, has standard guest rooms, larger suites (some with enormous timber decks) and some great loft rooms with elevated sleeping areas (strangely, all cost the same), while backpackers can book into one of the (ultrapricey) eight-bed dorms with bathroom. Lunch mains are €12 to €15, dinner mains €15 to €28. Spa treatments use hand-harvested seaweed and the property’s own mountain spring water.
Louisburgh
pop 314
The northern gateway to the Doolough Valley, the little village of Louisburgh (Cluain Cearbán), was founded under curious circumstances in 1795. Based on a simple four-street system known as the Cross, the whole town was designed and built as a living memorial to a relative of the first Marquis of Sligo, Lord Altamont (John Browne): his kinsman was killed at the Battle of Louisburgh in Nova Scotia, 1758.
The Granuaile Interpretive Centre ( 098-66134; Church St; adult/concession €4/2; 11am-5pm Jun-Sep, 10.30am-2pm Mon-Fri Oct-May), in the library, offers a quick but illuminating glimpse into the life and times of Grace O’Malley (Gráinne Ní Mháille or Granuaile; 1530–1603) the infamous pirate queen of Connaught.
There are some excellent surf beaches in the vicinity. Contact Surf Mayo ( 087 621 2508; www.surfmayo.com) for gear rental and lessons.
Old Head Forest Caravan & Camping Park ( 087 648 6885; Old Head; campsites €20; Easter–mid-Sep) is a family-friendly camping park in woodland, 4km from Louisburgh and a short walk from its namesake safe, sandy beach, which has a pier and a lifeguard on duty in summer. Good facilities include free hot showers, a cafe and ice-cream parlour and a tennis court.
Bus Éireann ( 096-71800) service 450 links Westport and Louisburgh (€6.40, 35 minutes, up to three times daily Monday to Saturday) via Murrisk.
Killadoon
Panoramic ocean views and vast sandy beaches fan out from tiny Killadoon. The empty beaches are idyllic for horse riding – Click here for riding stables.
Take the narrow coastal road heading south from Louisburgh, or turn west off the R335 at Cregganbaun. Bus Éireann ( 096-71800) service 450 from Westport (€8.70) and Louisburgh (€3.40) continues to Killadoon twice daily on Thursdays only. The trip takes about 15 minutes.
* * *
BOYCOTT BEGINNINGS
It was near the unassuming little village of Neale that the term boycott came into use. In 1880, the Irish Land League, in an effort to press for fair rents and improve the lot of workers, withdrew field hands from the estate of Lord Erne, who owned much of the land in the area. When Lord Erne’s land agent, Captain Charles Cunningham Boycott, evicted the striking labourers, the surrounding community began a campaign to ostracise the agent. Not only did farmers refuse to work his land, people in the town refused to talk to him, provide services or sit next to him in church. The incident attracted attention from the London papers, and soon Boycott’s name was synonymous with such organised, nonviolent protests. Within a few months, Boycott gave up and left Ireland.
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
CLARE ISLAND
pop 130
Clew Bay is dotted with some 365 islands, of which the largest is the mountainous Clare Island, 5km offshore at the mouth of the bay. Dominated by rocky Mt Knockmore (461m), its varied terrain is terrific for walking and climbing (getting lost is never a worry!), and swimming can be enjoyed at safe, sandy beaches.
The island has the ruins of the Cistercian Clare Island Abbey (c 1460) and Granuaile’s Castle, both associated with the piratical Grace O’Malley. The tower castle was her stronghold, although