Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [380]
Activities
The Heathfield Lodge Stables ( 096-43350; liz@heathfieldstables.com; Ballycastle) offers riding lessons, children’s pony rides and trail rides through beautiful coastal hill country near Ballycastle. It’s about 1km down the road towards Killala.
Sleeping & Eating
Stella Maris ( 096-43322; www.stellamarisireland.com; Ballycastle; s €155-185, d €200-250; May-Sep) This salt-spattered building sits on a lonely stretch of coastline 2.5km west of Ballycastle. It was originally a British Coast Guard station, and later a nunnery; now, upmarket rooms combine antiques and stylish modern furnishings, breakfast includes treats like French toast, and the restaurant (open dinner nightly for guests, Tuesday to Sunday for nonguests) is well regarded for locally sourced dishes such as rack of lamb.
Mary’s Cottage Kitchen ( 096-43361; Lower Main St, Ballycastle; dishes from €2.50; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Cosy stone cottages like this are always appealing, and never more so than when they house a bakery that advertises its wares with the aroma of warm apple pie. During the summer tables are set up out back in a leafy garden. Hours can vary.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 096-71800) runs between Ballycastle and Ballina (€6, 30 minutes) twice a day, Monday to Friday.
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KILLALA & AROUND
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The town itself is pretty enough, but Killala (Cill Alaidh or Cill Ála) is more famous for its namesake bay nearby, and for its role in the French invasion and rebellion of Wolfe Tone in 1798.
It’s claimed that St Patrick founded Killala, and the Church of Ireland cathedral sits on the site of the first Christian church. The 25m round tower still looms over the town’s heart; it was struck by lightning in 1800 and the cap was later rebuilt.
Rathfran Abbey
The silence at the remains of this remote Dominican friary, dating from 1274, is broken only by the cawing of crows and the whistling wind. In 1590 the friary was burned by the English, but the resilient monks stayed nearby until the 18th century.
Take the R314 road north out of Killala and, after 5km and crossing the River Cloonaghmore, turn right. After another 2km turn right at the crossroads.
Breastagh Ogham Stone
This lichen-covered stone, the height of a basketball player, is etched with an obscure Ogham script but the weathered markings are all but invisible. It’s in a field left of the R314, just past the turning for Rathfran Abbey. Cross the ditch where the sign points to the stone.
Lackan Bay & Kilcummin
Flush with revolutionary fervour and eager to hurt the English in their own backyard, on 22 August 1798 more than 1000 French troops commanded by General Humbert landed at Kilcummin in Killala Bay. It was hoped (or rather promised by Irish patriot Wolfe Tone) that their arrival would inspire the Irish peasantry to revolt against the English.
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FILLING IN YOUR FAMILY TREE
Many people left Mayo during the Famine years, establishing family roots elsewhere in the world. If your surname is Barrett, Brennan, Dogherty, Doyle, Foy, Harkin, Henry, Kelly, Lavelle, McNulty or McNicholas (among others), there’s a strong chance that your people originally hailed from north Mayo. (The Lavelles are believed to have arrived on Achill Island from France around the time of the 1798 Rising.) You can get in touch with your roots at the Mayo North Family Heritage Centre ( 096-31809; mayo.irishroots.net; Enniscoe, Castlehill, Ballina; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar).
Common surnames originating from south Mayo include Burke, Duffy, Gallagher, Joyce, Kelly, Moran, Murphy, O’Connor, O’Malley and Walsh. You can dig up information at the South Mayo Family Research Centre ( 094-954 1214; mayo.irishroots.net; Main St, Ballinrobe; 9.30am-noon & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri).
Genealogy services at both centres begin with an initial