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€400-500; ) Hidden within 40 hectares between Lough Conn and the River Moy, 5km south of Ballina, this gorgeous 1870s mansion was seamlessly extended a couple of years ago. Rooms in the new wing have forest-inspired colour schemes that appear to morph into the surrounding woodlands, while those in the old house retain some astonishing period features, as does the restaurant (dinner is €49), set in the mansion’s original kitchen. Anglers will be hooked by Mount Falcon’s own exclusive fishery along the river.

Eating

Gaughan’s ( 096-70096; O’Rahilly St; lunch €4-18; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Once a dark old local pub, Gaughan’s is now solely a restaurant serving its home-cooked staples like baked gammon. You can be sure the salmon’s top-notch: Clarke’s Salmon Smokery is right next door.

Dillon’s Bar & Restaurant ( 096-72230; Dillon’s Tce; mains €14-25; food served 5-9pm Mon-Thu, 12.30-9pm Fri-Sun) Easily missed behind a blank concrete archway, Dillon’s vine-covered cobbled courtyard with alfresco seating is a diamond find. The menu utilises local produce, there are trad sessions on Wednesdays and DJs Fridays and Saturdays. From the town centre, turn right at the north end of Pearse St; it’s on your left.

Pier (lunch mains €7-19, dinner mains €18-34; lunch & dinner) Chef Gavin O’Rourke heads up this chic waterside spot at the Ice House hotel (left). Organic artisan produce is used in most of his creations, best sampled with an eight-course tasting menu (€79), paired with wines (extra €65).

Drinking

An Bolg Buí (Yellow Belly; 096-22561; Tolan St) A good place to start a pub crawl of Ballina’s dozens of watering holes is this well-worn, all-wood pub by the bridge, where you can savour a pint and swap fishing tales. Traditional music sessions take place on Wednesdays.

Quattro ( 096-22750; Pearse St) This multi-purpose restaurant/bar/entertainment hub is onto it, with live bands from Thursday to Monday nights and an excellent Italian-inspired menu (mains €14 to €23).

Getting There & Away

Bus Éireann runs daily express services from the bus station ( 096-71800; Kevin Barry St) to Westport (€11.50, one hour). Buses also go to Achill Island (€14.90, two to three hours, two daily), Sligo (€12.90, 1½ hours, five daily) and Dublin (€17.10, 3½ hours, six daily).

Trains to Dublin (€35 to €48.50, 3½ hours, three daily) leave from the train station ( 096-71818; Station Rd), at the southern extension of Kevin Barry St. Ballina is on a branch of the main Westport–Dublin line, so you’ll have to change at Manulla Junction.

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AROUND BALLINA

Rosserk Abbey

Dipping its toes into the River Rosserk, a tributary of the Moy, this Franciscan abbey dates from the mid-15th century. There’s an eye-catching double piscina (perforated stone basin) in the chancel: look for the exquisite carvings of a round tower and several angels. Rosserk was destroyed by Richard Bingham, the English governor of Connaught, in the 16th century.

Leave Ballina on the R314 for Killala and after 6.5km turn right at the sign and then left at the next crossroads. Continue for 1km, then turn right.

North Mayo Sculpture Trail

Leading artists from eight different countries were commissioned to create this trail of 14 permanent outdoor sculptures reflecting the beauty and wilderness of the northern Mayo countryside. It essentially follows the R314 for 90km from Ballina to Blacksod Point and can be walked.

Tourist offices and bookshops sell the 60-page North Mayo Sculpture Trail (Tír Sáile) book detailing each sculpture.

Errew Abbey & Mt Nephin

It’s a rough 800m scramble over farmland to reach the ruined Errew Abbey, but it’s worth it for the picturesque location cupped on three sides by mirrorlike Lough Conn. The disintegrating remains include a 13th-century house for Augustinian monks built on the site of a 7th-century church.

From the quiet country town of Crossmolina, take the Castlebar road south, and 1km past the heritage centre, turn left at the sign and keep going for 5km. The entrance is by a farm.

To stretch your legs and get your