Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [384]
Take the N5 east and turn left onto the N58 to Straide (Strade on some maps). It’s 16km from Castlebar.
BALLINTUBBER ABBEY
The history of this delightful little abbey ( 094-903 0934; www.ballintubberabbey.ie; Ballintubber; admission free; 9am-midnight; ) reads like a collection of far-fetched folk tales. Often referred to as ‘the abbey that refused to die’, this is the only church in Ireland founded by an Irish king that is still in use. It was set up in 1216 next to the site of an earlier church founded by St Patrick after he came down from Croagh Patrick.
The abbey was burned by Normans, seized by James I and suppressed by Henry VIII. The nave roof was only restored in 1965 after the original was burned down by Cromwell’s soldiers in 1653. Mass was outlawed and priests hunted down. Yet worship in the roofless remains continued against all the odds.
Take the N84 south towards Galway and after about 13km turn left at the Campus service station; the abbey is 2km along.
Sleeping & Eating
Lough Lannagh Village ( 094-902 7111; www.loughlannagh.ie; Old Westport Rd, Castlebar; campsites €18-28, B&B s/d €60/94, cottages per week from €720; camping ground Easter-Sep, lodge & cottages year-round; ) On the shores of Lough Lannagh, a 10-minute walk from the town centre, this combined camping ground, B&B lodge and self-catering cottages does feel like a bustling little village. You can hit the tennis court or ping-pong table, work out in the gym or arrange bike rental. Lodge guests can use the kitchen facilities.
TF Royal ( 094-902 3111; www.tfroyalhotel.com; Old Westport Rd, Castlebar; s €69-105, d €129-170; ) First came this family-run hotel, and then came the 2200-capacity TF Royal theatre next door. There’s a theatrical feel to the hotel’s decor of velour, tasselled drapes and comfy sofas, and some of the 27 rooms have poster beds. The Royal’s restaurant get packed when there’s a show on, which might be anything from concerts by artists such as Kenny Rogers or Christy Moore to Broadway productions like Annie. Carvery fare is €11 to €14; restaurant mains cost €15 to €23.
Rua ( 094-928 6072; Spencer St, Castlebar; mains €4-14; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Rua, run by the son of Café Rua’s owner, is an inspired new establishment that is reason enough to brave Castlebar’s traffic. On the mezzanine, the airy cafe offers a ‘taste of the west of Ireland’ in its daily changing specials (including numerous vegetarian options), all made from artisan, organic produce such as local duck eggs, Sligo pasta, Carrowholly cheese from Westport and Ballina smoked salmon, and Rua’s own bakery. Everything on your plate can be purchased downstairs at the ‘farmers market’–style gourmet deli.
Café Rua ( 094-902 3376; New Antrim St, Castlebar; dishes €4-14; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) This long-time local favourite continues to attract loyal support for its filling, healthy Irish dishes and pastries. On your way in you might catch a whiff of a house speciality: champ (comprising mashed potatoes and onions). It does a mean breakfast, and good coffee, too.
Getting There & Around
Bus Éireann ( 096-71800) travels to Westport (€4.50, 20 minutes, 10 daily), Dublin (€17.60, 4½ hours, one daily) and Sligo (€14.90, 1½ hours, three daily). Services on Sunday are less frequent. Buses stop on Market St.
The Westport–Dublin train stops at Castlebar (€38 to €48.50, 3½ hours) three times daily. The station is just out of town on the N84 towards Ballinrobe.
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KNOCK
pop 745
Knock (Cnoc Mhuire) was little more than a downtrodden rural village until 1879, when a divine apparition propelled it to become one of the world’s most sacred Catholic shrines. Ireland’s diminutive equivalent of Lourdes and Fátima is now a serious pilgrimage site for the faithful, particularly