Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [391]
The delicately balanced dolmens were originally covered with stones and earth, so it requires some effort to picture what this 2.5km-wide area might once have looked like. To help (or some would say hinder) the imagination, Dúchas (which operates the site) has launched a decapitated reconstruction of one cairn, caged by wire and sliced open by a gaping entrance. An exhibit in the roadside visitor centre gives the full low-down on this fascinating site.
To get here, leave town by Church Hill and follow the signposts south for 5km.
Strandhill
pop 1413
The great Atlantic rollers that sweep the shorefront of Strandhill (An Leathras) make this long, red-gold beach unsafe for swimming. They have, however, made it a surfing mecca. Its handy 24-hour surfcam (www.strandhillsurfcam.com) brings surfers scurrying whenever the surf’s up.
Gear hire and lessons can be arranged through Perfect Day Surf Shop ( 087 202 9399; www.perfectdaysurfing.com; Shore Rd) and Strandhill Surf School ( 071-916 8483; www.strandhillsurfschool.com; Beach Front), as well as Strandhill Hostel.
Alternatively, take a gentler, warmer dip in the Voya Seaweed Baths (see boxed text, Click here).
A few kilometres towards Sligo, you can walk – at low tide only! – to Coney Island. Its New York namesake was supposedly named by a man from Rosses Point. The island’s wishing well is reputed to have been dug by St Patrick (who, if all these tales are to be trusted, led a very busy life). Check tide times to avoid getting stranded.
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MERMAID DREAMS
Ireland’s only native spa therapy is the stuff of mermaid (or merman) fantasies. Part of Irish homeopathy for centuries, steaming your pores open then submerging yourself in a seaweed bath is said to help rheumatism and arthritis, thyroid imbalances, even hangovers. Certainly it leaves your skin feeling baby-soft: seaweed’s silky oils contain a massive concentration of iodine, a key presence in most moisturising creams.
Seaweed baths are prevalent along the west coast but two places stand out. Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths ( 091-36238; www.kilcullenseaweedbaths.com; Enniscrone; s/tw bath €24/32; 10am-9pm May-Oct, noon-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun Nov-Apr) is the most traditional. Set within a grand Edwardian structure, Kilcullen’s has loads of character, with original gigantic porcelain baths and stout brass taps still operating. For an altogether more modern setting, try Voya Seaweed Baths ( 071-916 8686; www.celticseaweedbaths.com; Shore Rd, Strandhill; s/tw €25/35; 10am-8pm), which has a beachfront location.
If too much relaxation is barely enough, both establishments also offer the chance to indulge in various other seaweed treatments, including body wraps and massages.
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SLEEPING
Strandhill Hostel & Knocknarea House ( 071-916 8313; www.strandhillaccommodation.com; Shore Rd; hostel dm/s/d €16/20/30, Knocknarea House d €60-70; ) Surfer dudes and dudettes thaw out by the open fire in the common room of this well-run, 34-bed hostel a few paces from the strand. Next door, Knocknarea House is a former B&B that retains its frilly decor, but offers privacy by way of single, double and triple rooms (some with their own bathroom). Breakfast’s not included at the hostel or the house, but Knocknarea guests can use the hostel kitchen. The owners operate a surf school, with lessons starting from €30 for two hours, including gear rental.
Strandhill Caravan & Camping Park ( 071-916 8111; sxl@iol.ie; campsites car/hiker or cyclist €20/11; Easter-Sep) Ideally positioned by the long beach, separated only by grassy dunes, this large flat camping ground has 100 sites and good facilities. Showers cost €1.50; electricity is €5.
Dunes Tavern ( 071-916 8131; www.accommodationstrandhill.com; Top Rd; dm/d from €20/50) Dunes is up the hill from the beach along the main highway and offers the traditional sleeps-over-a-pub combo. All seven rooms have private bathrooms and views of the beach or Knocknarea. The pub, with billiards and the odd céilidh session, is a social