Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [393]
West off the N4 road, Carrowkeel is closer to Boyle than Sligo town. From the latter, turn right in Castlebaldwin, then left at the fork; it’s 2km uphill from the gateway. You can take an Athlone bus from Sligo and ask to be dropped off at Castlebaldwin.
Ballymote & Around
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This pretty little town merits a visit if only to see the immense ivy-covered shell of Ballymote Castle. It was from this early-14th-century castle, fronted by formidable drum towers, that O’Donnell marched to disaster at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601. It’s on the Tubbercurry road.
Eagles soar straight over your head at the new volunteer-run research centre Eagles Flying ( 071-918 9310; www.eaglesflying.com; Ballymote; adult/child/student €9/5.50/8; flying demonstrations 11am & 3pm Apr-Oct). Scientists answer questions about these birds of prey during demonstrations; there’s also an on-site minizoo with ducks, donkeys and other cute critters.
Around 6km south of Ballymote at Kesh, the Caves of Kesh (sometimes spelt Keash) are rich with mythology and are believed to extend for miles (some say as far as Roscommon). Human remains have been found here, as well as those of cave bears, reindeer, Arctic lemmings and Irish elk. Check with the tourist office in Sligo for current access details, as it can vary.
Just under 10km southwest of Kesh, at the main crossroads of the village of Gurteen (also spelt Gorteen), the Coleman Irish Music Centre ( 071-918 2599; www.colemanirishmusic.com; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) has multimedia music exhibits and hosts workshops and performances. You can add to your music collection or pick up your own instruments and sheet music at the on-site shop. If you’re inspired, contact five-time All-Ireland champion bodhrán player Andrew ‘Junior’ Davey ( 072-928 3772, 086 301 3567; www.colemanbodhran.com) for private lessons (€25 per hour) or a week-long summer school in late June/early July (€250).
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DETOUR: LADIES BRAE
For a DIY adventure well off the beaten track, following the narrow back roads between Ballymote and Aughris Head brings you past the impossibly pretty Ladies Brae. You’ll find secluded picnic tables and some superb walks that link with the 74km waymarked Sligo Way (www.walkireland.ie).
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Temple House ( 071-918 3329; www.templehouse.ie; Ballymote; s €105-120, d €160-190; Apr-Nov; ), set in 400 hectares of woodlands, overlooks the ruins of a 13th-century Knights Templar castle and a crystalline lake that you can explore by rowboat. The Georgian mansion has been in the same family since the 1600s, and has six shabby-chic period guest rooms (with sparkling new bathrooms), dusty natural-history collections and decapitated hunting trophies. Dinner costs €45. It’s signposted 500m south of the small village of Ballinacarrow (also spelt Ballynacarrow), close to the N17.
On Gurteen’s main street, the exterior stonework of Church View B&B ( 071-918 2935; www.thechurchview.com; s/d €40/70; ) mirrors St Patrick’s church next door. Inside, its rooms are stylish and spotless, with private bathrooms. Breakfast includes steaming potato waffles and homemade marmalade.
Tubbercurry
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Sleepy Tubbercurry (Tobar an Choire), also spelt Tobercurry, is shaken awake in mid-July, when the week-long South Sligo Summer School ( 071-912 0912; www.sssschool.org) celebrates Irish music and dance with infectious gusto. Try your hand at anything from the tin whistle to an Irish jig, or simply enjoy the eruption of local concerts and recitals.
Year-round, Tubbercurry’s town centre comes to life during its weekly farmers market ( 3-6pm Thu).
Aughris Head
An invigorating 5km walk traces the cliffs around remote Aughris Head, where three wild dolphins – Oisin, Fionn and Maedbh – have taken to swimming into the bay most days.
In a stupendous setting on the beach by the cliff walk, the Beach Bar ( 071-917 6465; mains €10-18.50; food served daily summer, weekends only winter)