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Drumcliff & Benbulben

Visible right along Sligo’s northern coast, Benbulben (525m), often written Ben Bulben, resembles a table covered by a pleated cloth: its limestone plateau is uncommonly flat, and its near-vertical sides are scored by earthen ribs. Walking here can be dangerous for the uninitiated – the Sligo Mountaineering Club ( 071-914 1267) has advice.

Benbulben’s beauty was not lost on WB Yeats. Before the poet died in Menton, France in 1939, he had requested: ‘If I die here, bury me up there on the mountain, and then after a year or so, dig me up and bring me privately to Sligo’. His wishes weren’t honoured until 1948, when his body was interred in the churchyard at Drumcliff (sometimes spelt Drumcliffe), where his great-grandfather had been rector.

Yeats’ grave is next to the doorway of the Protestant church, and his youthful bride Georgie Hyde-Lee is buried alongside. Almost three decades her senior, Yeats was 52 when they married. The poet’s epitaph is from his poem Under Ben Bulben:

Cast a cold eye

On life, on death.

Horseman, pass by!

Visiting the grave is somewhat disturbed by traffic noise along the N15 that no doubt has Yeats rolling over.

In the 6th century, St Colmcille chose the same location for a monastery. You can still see the stumpy remains of the round tower, which was struck by lightning in 1936, on the main road nearby. Also in the churchyard is an extraordinary 11th-century high cross, etched with intricate biblical scenes.

In summer, the church shows a 15-minute audiovisual on Yeats, St Colmcille and Drumcliff. You can browse books, pick up local ceramics and peruse shamrock souvenirs at its little tea shop.

Historic Lissadell House, west of Drumcliff off the N15 just past Yeats Tavern, had closed to the public at the time of research, but may reopen – check with the tourist office in Sligo town Click here for updates.

SLEEPING & EATING

Benbulben Farm ( 071-916 3211; www.benbulbenfarm.com; Barnaribbon, Drumcliff; s/d €45/70; Apr-Sep; ) The two-hour-return mountain walk starts at the gate of this isolated farmhouse B&B at the base of Benbulben. Run by a friendly family, the house has five comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, and uninterrupted views across sheep-flecked paddocks to the sea. It’s 2km north of Drumcliff.

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DETOUR: INISHMURRAY ISLAND

It takes some effort to arrange a visit to Inishmurray, an island that was abandoned in 1948, leaving behind early Christian remains and fascinating pagan relics. There are three well-preserved churches, beehive cells and open-air altars. The old monastery, surrounded by a thickset oval wall, was founded in the early 6th century by St Molaise.

The pagan relics were also assembled by Inishmurray monks. There’s a collection of cursing stones: those who wanted to lay a curse did the Stations of the Cross in reverse, turning the stones as they went. There were also separate burial grounds for men and women, and a strong belief that if a body was placed in the wrong ground it would move itself during the night.

Only 6km separates Inishmurray from the mainland, but there’s no regular boat service, and the lack of a harbour makes landing subject to the weather. Enthusiastic historian Joe McGowan runs excursions from Mullaghmore aboard the MV Excalibur ( 071-916 6267; www.sligoheritage.com) from early May to early October for €35 return per person. Outside peak times it’s a collective €360 for the boat hire, but it’s often possible to join with others to keep costs down. The MV Celtic Dawn ( 071-916 6124; tlomax@eircom.net) also organises voyages to Inishmurray Island from Mullaghmore as well as sea angling trips, and rents fishing gear.

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Ardtarmon House ( 071-916 3156; www.ardtarmon.com; Ballinfull; s €64-69, d €88-110; closed late Dec-early Jan; ) In an incomparable location 10km west of the N15 on the Drumcliff to Raghly road, this fifth-generation family-run property has four spacious rooms in the manor house, and five self-contained cottages in converted farm buildings (from €155 for a two-night